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03-07-2015, 10:44 PM | |
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Car Care and Detailing Thread
Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.
While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot. I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b. I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things. Some of the things already on my list are: 1. Not sure if everyone recommends wool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do? http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water. http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB 4. Car Wash http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax? I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing? http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front. Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend. |
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03-14-2015, 04:23 PM | #76 | |
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03-14-2015, 04:57 PM | #77 | |
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If it's an aggressive polish that can only be used once per year, what do you do for swirl marks during the year or do you minimize them by continually washing and waxing? How often do you wax in between? Maybe I am over-estimating the amount of clear coat you remove by polishing? It just doesn't seem like there is a consistent answer for how often you need/can polish, although I realize that's based on how your paint is holding up. Part of the attraction to the Zaino products, now more than ever, is their non-abrasive nature. I'm not thinking I'll need to do pain correction. So it's layers of non-abrasive polish to decrease what I can assume will be light swirl marks followed by a wax. They even recommend on their site to use abrasive compounds only once you've tried other methods of correction. Their steps go Z-5 which is car polish for fine scratches and swirl marks. They claim non-abrasive fillers that can be layered 2-3 times over a dark colored car and will decrease these fine marks unlike other abrasive polish compounds where you couldn't layer because they have cleaners and oils in them. I would think with a very fine polishing pad it could help in applying this polish without damaging the clearcoat but might make the application of 2-3 layers less fatiguing on the old arms. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...oduct_Code=Z-5 They then recommend following that with their Z-2 to lock in that polished shine of Z-5. Seems to me they are considering their Z-2 to a polish in name only but seems like a wax as they claim that's the last step? That's the only confusing part. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...oduct_Code=Z-2 They also make a moderate/heavy paint cleaner but recommend this as last step secondary to issues we've mentioned. Again, they recommend layering their non-abrasive polish to hide fine marks/swirls over using an abrasive product. Less abrasive the better until you actually need to correct the paint. They make this very clear and that was good for me to hear because I wasn't really understanding polish before reading some things today. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...duct_Code=Z-PC Another option for compounds would be Meguiar's #9 glaze/swirl remover. Looks fairly non-abrasive and could be used with light cutting polishing pad. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQVX0/...I3BMJPQC14P7W9 Follow that with their Black Wax product. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBW29S/...I2M5W8ZF5PGSX3 |
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03-14-2015, 04:58 PM | #78 |
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Aluminum foli cleans chrome like a boss.
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03-14-2015, 06:41 PM | #79 | |
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I was impressed. |
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03-14-2015, 06:41 PM | #80 | |
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Figuring out how abrasive a polish was the last time I heavily ready up on this was tough. That Wolfgang Swirl Remover is not terribly abrasive but you need that level to get out your typical surface micro scratches. Also there isn't a way to polish out scratches without at lest a little abrasion. With a black car it's much tougher to hide them since you really do see everything. Have never tried Zaino products but anything that is a polish will have some abrasion which is not a bad thing. If it don't abrade its some kind of filler that ins't a polish. |
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03-14-2015, 06:52 PM | #81 | |
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The amount of clear you take off depends on how abrasive the polish and pad are. There are heavy correction pads and polishes and lighter ones. You more then likely will be able to use a relatively non-abrasive polish because the car has been taken care of. I polish twice a year but I use a very light polish and a light cutting pad on my Speed. I have a heavy correction polish for my wife's car because its paint is ****ed. |
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03-14-2015, 07:04 PM | #82 | |
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03-14-2015, 07:09 PM | #83 | |
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That's one of the reasons I highly recommend the Chemical Guys stuff. It lasts quite a while. My process, usually in early spring and late fall, is clay bar, polish, paint sealant, then wax. Usually my wife bitches at me when I go through it because she doesn't think the car needs that level of work again. |
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03-14-2015, 09:52 PM | #84 |
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What about the paint sealer line? Getting a new car and want to use some kind of sealant on the new paint. Cquartz? What else?
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03-15-2015, 05:23 PM | #85 |
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03-15-2015, 05:36 PM | #86 |
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04-07-2015, 07:10 PM | #87 |
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Two n00b questions. I like learning and I know I'll need to be close to a perfectionist here.
1. What is the best way to remove spots of road grime and bird shit without having to wash the car every few days? Water and let it soak to soften it, then microfiber? Another product? Quick detailer? 2. Since we are tinting the windows, I am also thinking about doing 3M film on the front hood to decrease rock chips and not use that bra which can collect dust and scratch the paint. Can you polish or wax the 3M film since it will show scratches as well? Is it safe against oxidation in the Phoenix heat and discoloration? Thanks xoxo Lewdog |
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04-07-2015, 09:07 PM | #88 | |
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My friend has the film on his CTS-V and I hate it. You can see where it stops from a ways away. |
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04-07-2015, 09:09 PM | #89 |
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Yea I've heard that too. Almost have to clean the lines around it with a Q-tip I've heard as well. I was going to do whole hood though not just front if I do it. Which might decrease a big line showing on the front of your hood. Other than that, with leaving it bare I would just take a pounding with rock chips I would think. Or I could leave that ugly ass bra on?
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04-07-2015, 09:14 PM | #90 | |
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That pretty much sums up my philosophy on it. |
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