Quote:
Originally Posted by srvy
Im not following you here? Your die set will have a case resizer and bullet seater. You will need calipers and a case trimmer. A must have is a case tumbler and walnut shell media clean and shine up for good inspection of the case before resizing. Buy good brass once fired Rem or Win I never liked Federal brass as I swear they mix something in that brass makes it softer and dents when resizing. I cussed that stuff you had to very lightly case lube and sucks to have to remove a stuck case out of your resizer. Always mark each brass I reload the last number times it was reloaded. My rule of thumb was after the 5th reload it was tossed. Every time you reload you have thinned down brass in resizing then trimmed back to case length.
Now wildcat reloading I don't recommend. That's for professionals who have experience necking down a .243 case into a .22 or .17 caliber to get a hi velocity varmint round. Many of these type wildcat rounds later became popular over the counter manufactured loads.
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As I understand it (again, I've never tried it before, so I'm just going by what I've been told by those that have and what I've read), first you need to use the correct brass; not any headstamp will do. Then you need to cut down the .223 case by nearly 0.4 inches; quite a bit to do with a crank trimmer. And it would be necessary to use multiple pilots to trim each piece of brass, as you'd start with a .22 cal pilot and eventually move up to something like a .334, I believe.
Your other option is to buy and use a cutting jig.
And the case wall must be a certain thickness, and I've been told a number of times that ordinary calipers won't do the job. You'll need something called a tube micrometer (think that's the right term).
After all of that, then you can neck down the case.
I read this article concerning rolling your own .300 BO brass years ago and decided I wasn't all that interested in owning a rifle chambered in .300 BO at the time:
http://www.massreloading.com/300BLK.html