One of the agreements is that the lady has hired ServiceMaster for a major steam cleaning/smoke removal which will help alot. However, there is still a lot of residual odor and stain that I fear will bleed through the new paint if we don't go all out.

I found that pic from www.elmirastoveworks.com I saw some 50's retro appliances there too.

One of the things I am envisioning is an addition that includes a family room (Man's Room that is). I am actually toying with the idea of a rustic look and trying to find someone with an old barn that has fallen down and use the wood from it as the finished wall where the entertainment system will go.

He got them all off E-bay. They aren't 50s "looking" appliances. They're actually 50s appliances. Oven, stove, dishwasher, everything. That being said, he lives two houses down from E. Faye Jones (now deceased) who was a student of Frank Lloyd Wright and a pretty famous architect. His houses are more 60s, but restoration is a big deal around here. Now we're going off on a tangent, but there's some kickass pics of Faye's architecture here:
http://www.urbanplanet.org/forums/lo...hp/t17801.html

My wife and I were married in the chapel in the very first picture.

Edit: actually were were married here. Wrong chapel in that first pic
http://www.thorncrown.com/Photogalle...lery1-1_fs.jpg

The 50's look is an 'A' in originalitlity. For resale it would be a different matter. Thats what i try to go with is neutral colors, for resale purposes. Its funny, because my girlfriend will say to replace the floor tile. I say with what? Anything then that, just replace it! I think WTF?
I end up useing what i think, because she says she can't pick it out because she doesn't know what to use. Doesn't make sense.

That church is really cool BTW.

RJ...whats the lowdown on the new trend I'm hearing about with "CORK" flooring?

Is it cool or not? Expensive?

Did some handyman work for my parent's new fan that me and my gal bought for their christmas.

Had to remove the old fan and rearrage the electrical wiring and install the new fan in there. Looks great.

Was going to do the plumbing for the dishwasher that we also gave my parents for christmas, but I didn't have the time to do it.

There is time however, to post on the internet.

Heh, well that, but realistically, we didn't have the proper equipment for that dishwasher to be hooked up correctly, and that my tools were 200 miles away from where my folks house is.

I was just teasing. The way it read i presumed it was something like that.

We've sold a few jobs with cork over the past few years. It appeals to customers who want an eco-friendly floor, people with back or feet problems (it gives a bit under-foot), and people who just want something different. Also, they're good DIY products.... glueless, floating floors, but make sure it's a pre-finished product. We had some issues in the past with applying a finish on-site. I think you could expect to find factory finished cork floors starting at around $5 per s/f. uninstalled.

Since cork is a softer material I wouldn't suggest it for every family. Small kids and large dogs probably wouldn't be a good fit with it. Also, if it's going in a kitchen you should probably glue the seams and maybe apply another coat of urethane.

Having said all that, I'm not a cork expert and some of this is just my opinion based on a few experiences and info I've picked up from manufacturer reps. A good brand you might want to look for is Wicanders, they have pretty good distribution around the country.


http://www.wicanders.com/page.asp?id=1&context=6,11,0

Didn't have a screw driver and pliers? That's about all I needed to put the last one I installed in.

:):)

Good stuff. I've seen it - haven't used it. But it's comparable to all other flooring prices. You can get in the low-end for $3 sft on up to $10.

Cork and Bamboo are very trendy due to their environmentally friendly qualities. I have about 1000 sqft of bamboo on the main living level of my house.

Here is an article for anyone interested in bamboo. Not real detailed, just good, basic info for someone researching products.


http://www.abqjournal.com/homes/428450homes01-28-06.htm

once a week i recommend stuffing your garbage disposel with ice and then turn it on

it will clean those nasty pipes

Okay, I just installed ceramic tile in the bathroom this weekend. I've never done that before, and i've never grouted before. I plan on grouting this weekend that way we can stay off of it for a day.

Any tips, tricks, helpful hints, or words of caution when grouting? I'm using a premixed precolored grout that can also be used as an adhesive.

First question: Should I use a sealant after i'm done?

Tip of the Day:
When storing paintbrushes that you've used for oil paints, wrap them in aluminum foil while they're still wet with the paint thinner you cleaned them with. They'll stay nice and moist without drying and stiffening up.

I used an adhesive-type grout to re-grout my bathroom wall tile a couple years back and it was a tremendous pain in the ass. The elasticity of it made it very difficult to wipe down to a smooth finish. I wouldn't recommend using it. Go to a tile supplier and get some real grout. Sealing the grout can be a pain too, but it makes it easier to keep it clean.

I've only used premixed adhesive grout for repairing tiles, so I can't help you out much there.

If you have a pre-mixed grout it may already have a stain treatment of some sort. Have you read the label?

I personally wouldn't worry about sealing grout in a bath area, but that's just an opinion. Is this an every day bath or a guest bath?

BTW, we are talking about floor tile, not wall tile?

Id sure seal it in a bath...helps keep the mildew from forming and seals from water penetration...it costs about 3 bucks and takes about 15 min.

floor tile, every day bathroom.

For an every day use bath sealing is probably worth your time, especially if there are small kids taking baths. We use a spray on item called Grout Shield. It can be applied while the grout is still wet but that's with a cementitious grout, it may work differently with the premixed.

FWIW, you might want to return that and just get a bag of grout. Mixing it isn't a difficult task and as was mentioned it's probably easier to apply and clean up.

Where are you located Pastor? My Dad has a huge old barn that's been down for years. I don't know how much of the wood is salvageable, but I'm sure some is.

Last night in 2 hrs, myself and 3 other guys constructed 32 bluebird houses that will be used in a charity fund raiser.

I have redone the seat, and have 70% of the work completed on the refurbishing of an old, small rocking chair that was old when I had it as a toddler. I need to get it completed for kidowanian.

before and after pics coming soon.

If it has beams with wooden pegs, I want dibs.....they're not worth anything, so I'll just take them off your hands to get them out of your way....

For those of you with a lot of A/V equipment in tight enclosures, here is a recommendation:

Buy a cheap AT (not ATX) computer power supply off of eBay. Look up a diagram online of the wiring scheme. Strip and solder together the two wires you need in order to "start it up" so to speak.

Buy a good 120 mm fan off of New Egg with a low decibel output, and place it either directly on top of your A/V receiver, or in the back of your enclosure to act as an exhaust.

Built in cooling unit for about 20-30 bucks.

I will investigate this further. The barn was probably built in the early 1900's.

I installed a new dishwasher after 25 years with the old one. I'm happy about it!

Dave

Western Oklahoma.

Here's a question...


What can you use to get old latex paint off of woodwork without ruining the finish on the woodwork? Whoever has painted our house in the past was pretty sloppy in spots.

I'd try a razor blade or exacto knife.

maybe some "goof off" or "dad's drip strip"

What kind of woodwork?
If it's molding, you can always remove it, strip it chemically, sand it and refinish it for optimum results.
I mean, even if you get the latex off without splotches, it'd seem like you'd have lost your urethane gloss/satin finish coat in the process.

that sounds like real work there

I'd probably either live with it or paint it before I get that carried away.;)

BTW, tile update: Ended up going with 13"x13" porcelin tiles. The pattern looks like limestone. There is a floor guy in our church that sells them that let me have them at his cost so I picked the best he sold. I've got close to 400 ft2 for about $750 (Including frieght). Plan on going with a light tile on the main floor with a darker shade of the same style as a border. Light tile will be in a 45 degree layout so I'll be doing a bit more cutting than normal but I think it will look better in the long run.

Got the carpet up and the floor scraped last night. (Whew!) Waiting on the shipment of morter and grout to start. (They are tied up due to the weather).

Depending on the finish on the woodwork, you might try a warm, wet washcloth. If it's latex, not oil, it may come off. You also might try a putty knife or something like that to carefully scrape it off without screwing up the finish. Finally, I'm with Baby Lee: It's not that much work to take off trim, sand, and refinish (depending on the size of the area).

Believe it or not, I've found that windex works good to soften it up to where you can gingerly scrape it off with the aforementioned putty knife.

In more extreme cases I've slid a putty knife under door trim and popped it about 1/8" away from the wall, sanded the edge, and then just put a little bit of stain & varnish back on it. Then just pop it back flush with the wall when it dries.

A bowl of antifeeze...

Very nice, 450 s/f of porcelain for $750 is a good price. That flooring dealer did you a good turn. Make sure to post some pics.

A Note to you folks:

Please, do not let your kid put a sponge in a bathtub drain, thinking the sponge is like SpongeBob Squarepants.

There is a product called "Goo Gone", sold in any wal-Mart or hardware store, that is used for removing adhesive residue or anything sticky. It should work well on old latex. If you want to work a little harder, try the warm washcloth that someone else recommended, latex is water based.

Lawyer fees? Court cost?

Since you are in floors, maybe you might know the tile I have (though I realize there are a lot of different brands and such). The Company is Earthwerks and I picked Tivoli Sand for the floor pattern with Tivoli Shadow as a border around the rooms.



BTW, why is it that my tile can come from Spain to Houston in tact but gets broke in transport from Houston to Ok City?

Yes, I do know a tile called Tivoli. Is the one you purchased a shifting sands type pattern?

Tile always gets broken in transit. I've always assumed it has a softer ride on the ship to Houston or LA than it has after it gets unloaded.

Sorta. I would guess it is more of a polished limestone look myself. At least it looks quite a bit like some of the limestone rock face I saw back in Missouri. It could be the sands though. The darker is the same pattern but looks like a shadow on it.


Our breakage was really VERY little. Out of 39 cases we had 8 tiles break and half of those broke when the delivery guy dropped a carton. The company is sending another carton for free to replace the broken ones. Of course I was trying to be really carefull with it as the temps were in the low 20s when I inspected and transfered from the truck to my van.

Bump for Bogie.

Thanks HemiEd I appreciate it.

I finally have my workshop cleaned up and ready for my next project. My wife has convinced me that I want to do built-in bookshelves. :) The wall the shelves will go on is approximately 14' wide with french doors in the middle. Therefore I will be building shelves on both sides as well over the top of the french doors. Basically surrounding the french doors with shelves. A few questions.

1. Should I build the shelves in my shop and install, or build them in place?
2. Where can I go to find free how-to plans. I'm not looking for plans to fit my layout, just plans for ideas on how to construct the shelves. Pictures would be very helpful. Yes Dad, you do need to draw me a picture.
3. The individual shelves will be permanent, they don't need to be adjustable. Can I support the shelves with a 1X2 under the the back and sides rather than have to do a dado? I have the skills and tools to do a dado, but a 1X2 would be so much easier and quicker.
4. It will be painted. Materials... MDF? Anything lighter or primed that you might suggest?

Any input you fellers have to offer on constructing buit-in book shelves would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
bogie (you can call me Jeff)

Built-in shelves will increase resale value, assuming you don't want to take them with you.
You should look for a book on shelving - try your library. There are few, if any free plans on the net.
You can use a 1x2 cleat if you plan to trim out the face with something that will cover that unsightly mess.
I'd use MDF only if there's no chance of leakage or condensation. You might consider the advantages of Melanine.

1. Should I build the shelves in my shop and install, or build them in place? If you try to build them in place, don't expect your walls & corners to be perfectly plumb & square. Likewise ,if you build them in your shop, don't expect them to fit perfectly. If you don't mind the fact that you can't take them with you when you move I would recommend building them in place.
2. Where can I go to find free how-to plans. I'm not looking for plans to fit my layout, just plans for ideas on how to construct the shelves. Pictures would be very helpful. Yes Dad, you do need to draw me a picture. I'd look at how the closet & cabinet shelves are constructed in your home for ideas.
3. The individual shelves will be permanent, they don't need to be adjustable. Can I support the shelves with a 1X2 under the the back and sides rather than have to do a dado? I have the skills and tools to do a dado, but a 1X2 would be so much easier and quicker. Yes, that's a common method, but aesthetically the dado is best.
4. It will be painted. Materials... MDF? Anything lighter or primed that you might suggest?If you use MDF make sure it's the high-density MDF, it's not as porous and it finishes out better.

They're there to stay. You're probably right about the book. I've been trying google and haven't really had much luck. I would probaly trim the face with 1X2 as well. There's no chance of leakage or condensation (well, I say no chance) it's in my family room. I was considering Melanine, isn't it a glossy veneer over compressed particle board. Can it be painted?

You're right, dado is best. I built a gun cabinet (for me), I used dados for lower shelves. but since it's a bookshelf for my wife 1X2 should suffice.
duh, I never thought about looking at my existing closets. That's a great idea!!! high-density MDF got it. Thanks.

No, you shouldn't paint melanine.

That's what I thought. Thanks, melanine's not the best route I should take.

Ok, now for the final phase of the "getting my place ready to sell" project. Carpet.

How much should I expect to pay (labor and materials)? I'm guessing I have around 300 sq feet to carpet, and I just want some cheap carpet.

Tommorrow we are putting some swiftlock wood flooring laminate in the kitchen. Anyone have any experience with this? It seems pretty easy, just snap it together.

Ya might wanna try..uhmm..how to say this?..ah, yes!..snapping it together.

Heh, yeah it's easy if you have a perfectly square room with no obstacles. What's the layout of your kitchen like?

Snapping it together isn't the trouble. Undercutting trim and getting the laminate cut around the tight places in your kitchen is the problem, especially for first timers.

Laminate is always marketed to inexperienced DIYers as "easy" but it's really difficult, especially if your room isn't square.

We will be replacing the trim as well.

Carpet is generally sold by the yard. You're looking at 10 yards.

You should be able to get incredibly cheap carpet installed - all inclusive for around $1000. If you're selling your place, upgrade the pad. It will make the carpet feel more expensive than it is.

Any door jambs?

no.

Since you're selling your house I guess this is OK. A friend of mine put down a similar floor in the kitchen and water seeped between the joints and caused the wood to swell. He's living with it for now, but plans on going another route when he fixes this mistake.

Good, because they are a big hassle. Your's looks fairly simple. I'd recommend buying an installation kit with a tapping block, pulling bar and spacers. This is the best pic I could find of one:

http://www.quickstyle.com/images/accessories/21.jpg

Even though it seems easy to snap them together when you have two loose pieces, it's not going to be that easy when you are putting the stuff down. Alway be ginger when using the tapping block because the edges can and will chip. My best advice is to be patient with the stuff and don't force it.

Good advice BE.

Saul, you aren't gonna snap this floor together in 2 hours like you see on TV. Leave plenty of time to get it done and don't rush. Measure twice, cut once.

Anyone ever put in a door and door frame? Need to replace my front door. New door is 80" and old one is about 84" tall. Obviously, I'm going to have to added facer board on the outside and sheetrock on the inside. I will have my uncle who is fairly experienced at home improvements help guide me. Do you guys have any other advice on this?

Front door at my first house was one of the bigger "Oh crap" projects I got into in that project.
Everything was so out of whack that it was quite an ordeal.
Have some lumber, plenty of shims, some insulation to stuff, caulking and some edging.

I can't imagine your project not being easier than that mess was....

Depending on installation costs in your area a low end carpet will cost between $1.90 - $2.50 per s/f.

Your guess of 300 s/f.....is the carpet going in just one room or maybe 2 bedrooms?

300 s/f is approximately 33 s/y. One s/y = nine s/f.

I believe it was 1999 when the federal government decided that carpet should be sould by s/f. The idea was that it would be easier for the consumer to compare different product types if they were all priced the same way. I'm really not sure why the government cares about how flooring is priced, but it does.

These days, carpet prices per foot range from about $2-$6 installed w/pad.

Has it been that long ago? Wow.

Yeah, I got my math backwards.

The front door is a project that I have been putting off for a while now. I know that once I get into it I will have an 'Oh crap' project too.

The scariest part of the front door project for me was.....Once you've torn it out, removed the frame....there is no turning back. There is no walking away from it for a day or two.
You get it fixed or your home is exposed to the elements and sticky fingers of thieves....not to mention the critters of the night.

Living room and a hallway.

1. Make sure what you are securing your frame to is secure to the structure. Since you're losing 4" in height, I'd suggest lagging a 4x4 [actually about 3 3/4 x 3 3/4, giving you room for shims] into the full width of the transom. Make sure that, if there are dimensional differences in the width as well, that the difference is filled with solid stock. Within a 1/4" of dimensionality.
2. True in all planes, horizontally, vertically, and front to back. Secure your shims tentatively [ie, 1/2 driven nails] to secure true, then check the door for free motion.
3. Don't lock everything down until you have true in all planes and free motion, then secure to the structure with 3 nails across the top, and 5 down each side, all appropriately shimmed of course.

Wood is not a good insulator. Your door header is already providing sufficient support for the 80" door. I would scab ONE 2X4 in at 81" and fill the space with insulation. That will give you a more energy efficient installation.

Exactly! I think that aspect makes me the most nervous. I am really bad about making my other projects last longer than they should. :)

Potayto, potahto. I prefer the brick shithouse approach to the energy efficient approach.