Pellet rifle and a 12 of beer, sounds like entertainment to me.

Has anyone put new windows on your house? I'm paying to have it done by the way. While I do consider myself 'handy' the idea of me being responsible for a sizeable hole in my house is not appealing.

I guess my real question is feedback on vinyl vs composite vs figerglass window framing. Any horror stories or stories of victory out there between the types?

So I have a leaking washer. It's an LG front-loading model...almost 10 years old. Two days ago my wife washed a load and informed me that there was water coming from it. I told her to go make me a sandwich while I looked at it. I checked it out and it appears to be coming from underneath (pipes/hoses/drainage in the back were all dry, as well as the wall beneath the hookups and drainage pipe). Is a 10 year old washer worth fixing?

EDIT: And does anyone have a good repairman around KCMO North?

Sorry kepp, your question will be answered in the order it was received. I'm still waiting on my window question. :evil:

LMAO "The current wait time is approximately....9 hours."

In this day and age, if you got an appliance to last 10 yrs..especially a washer, you did damn good.
Go buy a new one..and in my opinion, dont get another front loader.

Agree with this. They're not even designed to last that long. Though, LG makes pretty nice stuff.

I think that as long as you're not installing wood and the glass is appropriate for the application, you're half-way to victory. The other half is a proper installation by experienced professionals. Anybody who gets a $189 window installed is getting crap thrown in a hole in your house. Between install and the window, you should be paying at least $500 at a bare minimum if you're looking to upgrade to anything energy efficient at all.

Are there any ez go golf cart repairmen in the house?

I have a mid 2000's gas golf cart. Lately, when I stop and even turn the key off it just keeps turning over. Ideas on what is wrong would be appreciated. I know nothing about them.

Low on antifreeze.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch completing the circuit, the electrical charge is jumping the contact.

Does sound like the switch to me too, unless it won't shut off because it wants a new contract or to be traded before training camp.

Fiberglass.

To much advance in timing will cause that. It's running to hot and continues to combust for a few seconds.

First and foremost, does it continue idling as if the key were still in the on position, or does it slowly chuff itself to sleep? If it's the former, your ignition module, specifically the kill switch, may have a short or disconnect.

If it's the latter, yeah, either pre-ignition or dieseling. The former [pre-ignition] concerns your timing or distributor points. The latter [dieseling] concerns either spark plug gap, or a buildup in the combustion chamber that heats up and acts as a diesel 'glow plug,' igniting the fuel through heat instead of electrical arc.

After the post run-on ignition off, and a period of cooling, is it difficult to start cold? If so that would be the strongest suggestion that your spark plugs are incorrectly gapped for the particular engine.

Depending on funds, I'd start with plugs by either [cheaply] taking the the ignition end to the wire wheel [mind the ceramic] and then gap them to specs, or [$baller$] new spec-ed plugs and wires.

In conjunction with, or immediately following, step one check out the vacuum connections. It could be that your vacuum advance is sticking open.

If that does nothing, track down a repair [not owners] manual and check the specs on the distributor.

Failing that, then you might have to pull the head and clean up the chambers. Don't know how pricey that is for a motor of that size/application, but expect at least a new head gasket, and at least use if not outright purchase of a torque wrench to re-install the head to the block within specs.

If you can easily track down a repair manual, or even better a specialized EZGO enthusiast forum, you may come across some solutions/communal wisdom that saves you a lot of trouble in the long run.

If none of this helps, the more specifics you can provide, the more help can be offered. This includes both model info [motor size, type, year, manufacturer, etc.] and symptom info [power lag, difficult starts, battery buildup, charging problems, fluid leakage, etc.]

I linked to this Phobia on Facebook, he didn't get it.

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My pops taught me how to do this when I was young, and I haven't cursed a tangled cord since.
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Now you can be the envy of those who can't figure out what exactly you just did.

When I hit the brake and turn off the key it keeps "chuffing" as you say, similar to the first time I try to start it before I choke it to get it started. It's not running per se, it acts like it's trying to start and then eventually quits after a minute or two.

It is definitely starting a little harder cold and requires the choke to start.

It sounds like maybe it's as simple as trying spark plugs? I'll start with that and clean the connections I can and see what happens for starters.

Thanks BL.

Haven't had time to click yet.

I was working on a huge construction site years ago and was leaving the job. Framers had one of those laying across the road. Drove on out and noticed people looking and finally one pointed to back of truck. That pretty little loop jumped onto the trailer hitch and it was trashed.

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I doubt anybody knows anything about this, but anyway,

I just bought an under sink water filter. It's a whirlpool, with 3 filters on it. Got it all installed and turned on the little faucet that came with it, and the water just trickles out. I have good pressure going into the filters, but next to nothing coming out. Of course the help line is m-f until 6, so I will have to wait until monday to call them.

the good news is, my water doesn't taste like dirt anymore. The bad news is it takes 3 minutes to fill a glass.

any experiences with this?
Posted via Mobile Device

No experience but I would start with re-reading the directions, then take it back apart and see if you missed anything? Sounds like something is backward.

I have a GE that does the same thing. It came with the house so I've never taken the time to **** with it.

Interested in knowing what you find out.

BEP is going to kill you. Lazy bastard!

Thought about that, but all the connections are color coded.

What a huge 200 dollar disappointment.

Did you have to shut down your water service to install it? And if so, is it possible the filters are already clogged from shit breaking free from when you turned it back on?

No, just turned it off under the sink.

Sleep on it, works for me, then I call myself a dumb ass when I figure it out...

Can you bypass or remove the filter once installed?

Does it have a valve and are both ends color coated? I'm thinking an upside down valve.

It isn't hooked up to the main faucet. It comes with a small faucet just for drinking water, so nothing else is affected.

It just has a yellow line from supply and a blue line to the faucet.

Should have a pressure tank. It may take overnight to fill the pressure tank.

It isn't reverse osmosis, so no tank. However, it could be that the filters have to do something similar, although the instructions didn't say anything about it.

Did you have any problems with the coupler fittings or does it have any?

It just uses some quick disconnect fittings.

Whatever diverts the water to the filter would be my focus.

How did you tap into the cold water under the sink?

Didn't think about a saddle valve, good call.

A tee fitting. The pressure going into the filter is good.

Any chance the filters are upside down?

Nah, they're just push and quarter turn.

Think I just bought a pos

This is the one to avoid. The water sure is good though.

It might be unavoidable when you're running it through that many filters. If you stack several micro allergen filters into your furnace you'll kill your airflow, don't see why it wouldn't be any different with water.

Is the water supply line one of those auto shutoff safety valve? Sometimes if the pressure is to good it shuts off the valve inside.

It could just be a turd.


I installed a WashIt brand detergentless system for our washing machine. http://www.washit.com It appeared idiot proof to install but I couldn't seem to figure it out. It was only a cold in warm in cold out line. I couldn't get it to work. Plug it in run cold water and it should go.

Short answer is I convinced the local shop that sold it that I didn't do it wrong after they came out. We replaced it with a new unit and it worked fine. That unit was just a dud.

We really like the detergenless system btw. Uses no soap and cloths smell good. Takes the sour smell out of wash cloths and towels too.

Also I would remove the supply line and reconnect to make sure it seated correctly. For some reason your not getting water to that filter my guess is its the compression fitting not seated correct.

The supply line im talking about is this goes buy the name floodsafe. They are a goodidea but pose many problems sometimes.

http://www.watts.com/images/aux_imag...dsafe_full.jpg

It has the connections where you just push them in and it locks the tubing into a socket.

Maybe a defective device.

Have you gone to the manufacturers website? I look in support and any trouble shooting that sounds like your problem.

I know it seems crazy but most likely is something in a connection that is keeping you from getting enough water to the filter.

Can you disconnect supply line and turn water on and see if its getting good water pressure like into a bucket or something.

Oh yeah. It rebounded into my face.

I'm thinking I might just disconnect it and take it back. Lowes never hassles me on returns.

Unless you're on well water you don't need anything elaborate. Just buy a standard 2.5" x 9.75" water filter housing.

The housing looks like this and is Size 1:

http://www.purewaterproducts.com/standard-housings

The faucet looks like this:

http://www.purewaterproducts.com/ledge-faucets

This filter cartridge will filter out all the nastiness, including chloramines. It will last for 20,000 gallons.

http://www.purewaterproducts.com/products/fc020

I've been using a similar setup to this for years and it's been great.

You can buy the housing and faucet at any home improvement place, this is just the place I buy the filter media. The KDF85 media along with CATALYTIC carbon is the key to the purest water and long life.

Thanks stewie

I took that thing back. I didn't read any reviews before I bought it, which would have clued me in beforehand. Whirlpool says you should have a 2 qt per minute flow at 60 psi, and that's the max flow you'll get out of their filtration system. Supposedly because the epa requires the water to contact filter surfaces for a given amount of time. Anyway, I doubt I was getting a half a quart per minute, and it's a super common problem. Don't ever buy one of these piles of crap.

Not DIY.. but anyone have pipes in their home hydro-jetted?

for roots? it's common...

Did in my last house. Old orangeburg tile sewer line that had issues with roots. The guy used a camera as well to show what it looked like. I was impressed with the results. We moved so I don't know about long term, but I felt it was worth it.

I have seen that done and then they jetted a sleeve inside the pipe to keep it from collapsing.

About how much did it cost?

Question: I am looking for a solid drill and impact drill set that can take a beating. What are the most reliable and durable brands.

Thanks

Dewalt are OK. I like the hitachi with lithium ion batteries.

I bought a 20v lithium ion porter cable drill/impact set today.

Dewalt cost more but work and a lot of your friends will have batteries or additional tools.


I also hear good things about Milwaukee and hitachi.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691.../dp/B001F7BIMG

was looking at this

We have a DeWalt impact with the lithium batteries at work, and we've had trouble with the batteries getting hotter than hell during extended use. IMO corded is the way to go if you want power and reliability with an impact.

I want to say around $600. It was about 5 years ago.

Cordless? Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee are all pretty solid.

Check the price of extra batteries. You may find that a cheaper "dispisable" brand offers better value than one that will last 15 years but cost 5x as much as you replace batteries.

I have the nicad dewalts and they're pretty good as long as you don't overcharge the battery.

Frankly I've never used an impact driver like that. I've used 1/2 and 3/4 impact wrenches but air is the way to go there. At one time we had a hitachi 1/2 impact and it was awesome. But we killed the batteries and they quit making them so we switched them to all air.

Probably going to go with milwaukee, I haven't bought a drill ever, I got my grandpas hand me down.

Pretty much everyone I know that uses tools for a living uses DeWalt. But if you just need something for occasional use around the house the Milwaukee should be fine. They were once a very respected brand but like many others they have cheapened their stuff up over the years.

Pops found a guy who puts DeWalt battery cells in whatever cordless device you desire.

If you don't need the heavy duty construction of a DeWalt device, but desire more robust power, it's a cheaper solution.

Dad now has a full compliment of Ryobi ONE+ tools, with DeWalt 18V Lithium power.

You using 20v?

Dude that is doing my kitchen uses Milwaukee. They looked pretty old, so they must have hung in there pretty well.

Ryobi is fine for the weekend warrior, but I swear by Dewalt for tools I use to make a living

Yeah the one that we were having trouble with the batteries overheating is a 20v.

My dad had a Milwaukee drill and circular saw back in the day, you could tell just by looking at them that the shit was built to last forever, the only drawback was that they weighed 3x as much as today's tools. It's all a trade-off.

I have had a Ryobi set for about 10 years, got tired of replacing the batteries every year or two. I went back to plug in, it's not often I'm too far from an outlet or extension cord that can't reach what I want to get to.

I have a full set of ryobi and the batteries are junk. Even with new batteries it doesn't have the same torque as the Makita, Milwaukee or dealt drills I have used. So far I am happy with my porter cable impact but it is too soon to say how it holds up.

When I took out the pool this summer I had two guy's with battery powered drills (dewalt) come over, both where done in 15 min. It's just not worth it for a guy that uses it once a month. Every day, okay I get it, but a drill you sit on a charger and don't use often is a waste of money.

No love for Bosch I will put them right in there with Dewalt.

I agree with corded drills I use it more than any. Not as bulky able to get into tighter spots and lighter.