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Old 06-18-2018, 09:30 AM  
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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DIY - Anyone ever wrap your automobile interior trim?
I'm going to do this - I have a little experience with a heat gun and shaping material that's similar in nature to this. Unfortunately my car has that awful cherry wood-grain paneling throughout the doors and dashboard - I'm planning on doing this soon. .....Anyone ever do this?

My carbon fiber hood is being painted currently at a collision center - so once I get her back - I'll do this. Seems pretty basic.

I'm also going to swap my engine start button to the red variety and as well as getting the red 'M' insert for the steering wheel - oh additionally I'm going to wrap my steering wheel trim.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:35 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Detoxing View Post
Probably the wrong stuff then. The stuff i used has a sticky back. No adhesive or adhesive promoter needed.
Phew! Okay that's good to know! I was thinking to myself - Did I miss something in those videos? LOL
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:35 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Detoxing View Post
You can also do a matte clear though, since matte is the finish you're after. If you put a gloss clear over matte vinyl...it'll be gloss. Ideally, the matte clear won't change the finish (you'll have to test it first of course) and it'll ad further UV protection to the vinyl.
GOTCHA! Thanks for that - I'll explore it.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:37 AM   #33
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I second the 3M products, use a few of their products on the farm for various things and they hold up well to all the abuse they see
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:38 AM   #34
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https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-for-print.pdf

Most recently ive used the Brushed Black Metallic. Looks killer. Doesn't look good with the clear though lol.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:41 AM   #35
loochy loochy is offline
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I did the interior of my old Saab with 3M Di-Noc. The Di-Noc is kind of thick and it can be difficult to use on small interior pieces. For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.

I also covered the white chrome window trim on my old Cadillac with some Vvivid Black Chrome. It was harder to work with and had a tendency to "streak" or "thin out" if heated too much.

Prep - make sure your piece is super clean.

You'll want to use a lot of heat to stretch the vinyl a bit so it kind of pulls and grabs around the edges. Leave a decent overlap around the edges and wrap it all the way around the piece. It takes a while to get the hang of how much to stretch it without ruining the print pattern. It also takes a while figure out how and where to make relief cuts when wrapping curved pieces (you'll see what I mean).
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:43 AM   #36
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Kinda diggin' this Matrix Black
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:44 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detoxing View Post
Probably the wrong stuff then. The stuff i used has a sticky back. No adhesive or adhesive promoter needed.
The promoter/primer is a good idea though. It really helped when I did the window trim on my old Cadillac. The first time I did it without promoter/primer and it started peeling up from the edge. After the promoter/primer, it stayed put.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:46 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by loochy View Post
For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.
I think they refer to it now as there "1080" product line. Which is what i linked to you, SR.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:47 AM   #39
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loochy View Post
I did the interior of my old Saab with 3M Di-Noc. The Di-Noc is kind of thick and it can be difficult to use on small interior pieces. For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.

I also covered the white chrome window trim on my old Cadillac with some Vvivid Black Chrome. It was harder to work with and had a tendency to "streak" or "thin out" if heated too much.

Prep - make sure your piece is super clean.

You'll want to use a lot of heat to stretch the vinyl a bit so it kind of pulls and grabs around the edges. Leave a decent overlap around the edges and wrap it all the way around the piece. It takes a while to get the hang of how much to stretch it without ruining the print pattern. It also takes a while figure out how and where to make relief cuts when wrapping curved pieces (you'll see what I mean).

I have a little experience - from owning a heat gun when i had my own business - as well as re-felting pool tables - which is more similar than one would think. Not saying I won't run into some hurdles - I'm sure i'll have to start over on a piece, early on. But it'll be fine.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:50 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Simply Red View Post
I have a little experience - from owning a heat gun when i had my own business - as well as re-felting pool tables - which is more similar than one would think. Not saying I won't run into some hurdles - I'm sure i'll have to start over on a piece, early on. But it'll be fine.
Just be careful with the heat gun. You can overheat it, cause it to become TOO pliable, and tear it. Honestly, a hair dryer is sufficient. On my heat gun i just used the lowest setting.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:50 AM   #41
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all the advice is appreciated. thanks.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:51 AM   #42
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Just be careful with the heat gun. You can overheat it, cause it to become TOO pliable, and tear it. Honestly, a hair dryer is sufficient. On my heat gun i just used the lowest setting.
noted.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:51 AM   #43
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I've got something to clean her trim with
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:52 AM   #44
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Pic of carbon and brushed aluminum
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Click image for larger version Name: saab 1.jpg Views: 76 Size: 24.7 KB ID: 116551  
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:53 AM   #45
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Oh - BTW, you can order small samples of whatever you want for about $1 apiece. It's worth it when trying to decide what color and texture you want.
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