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Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Car Care and Detailing Thread
Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.
While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot. I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b. I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things. Some of the things already on my list are: 1. Not sure if everyone recommends ![]() http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water. http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB 4. Car Wash http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax? I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing? http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front. Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend. |
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#541 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Forgot this thread was started by Lew and might be a timeline of black paint driving him mad.
Let's try to diagnose this and try to solve the problem. Lew - why are you considering getting a pro to correct your paint? |
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#542 | |
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Quote:
Honestly just wanted to get an idea of price is why I got the quote. I have used the Harbor Freight polisher with some success, actually just took out a decent sized scratch from a parking lot on my wife's car. Removed probably 90% of it but her car is tan and more forgiving. So I might tackle this myself once the car becomes our 3rd car and I can work in small sections at a time over a few weekends. Probably is while the harbor freight 6" works well for the large panels, how can I polish the smaller sections of the car? Is there a polisher that's 2-3" that works well? I also remember now that I would not repaint the car but would like do a vinyl job instead like MIA Dragon recommended. Much more reasonable and I think would last a long time for me as the car would never been driven in rain and would be in the garage for parking. Not having everyday wear and tear on a vinyl job, I would likely see 7+ years out of it. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html |
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#543 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Yeah non metallic is brutal and a few panels at a time like you described is ideal. However you should be able to polish out all of the micro stuff on your own.
Completely agree that smaller size pad or buffer is better for side pebbles. You could try a smaller backing plate which would be the most cost effective. I use a 5" for everything to be more manageable but works better when polishing (easier to focus pressure & heat). Another alternative that probably works the best is a smaller polisher with a 3" or so plate. My dad has one of these that is smaller version of polisher I use and works really great. Auto geek or autopoia pit these on sale too. https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage.../dp/B0042KL7OM |
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#544 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Haven't tried it yet but also bought one of these to hopefully make working on the sides panels less annoying
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
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#545 |
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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What type of cutting and polishing compound are you using?
Meguiars 205 seems to work well for most light scratches but I've not tried anything else. |
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#546 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Correcting polishes are often referred to as duos or at least are in autokeek lingo. One gets rid of the swirls/micro abrasions and follow it up with a finishing polish to get the mirror shine. I found trying to figure out how abrasive the various polishes were confusing as hell but have had great luck with this combo and cutting pad after a fair amount of research.
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-car-polishes-8oz.html I bought the same thing in their blackfire brand to try when I start working on my car this weekend or next only because I got a better sale price and they seemed damn near the same. After a quick search the 205 might be more along the finishing end of things. Does it take a lot of work with the polisher to get things out? If so you might need something with a little more cut. |
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#547 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Also when I say you should be able to get all of the micro shit out yourself I'm meaning to the level you can shine an LED light on it and not see anything. My dad has the same obsession with detail which he passed on to me but luckily I'm better able to ignore things until I focus on them. He has a non-metallic black SUV that plagues him at times but has been able to maintain well after correcting using the super careful stuff I remember you doing (drying with blower being the big one).
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#548 | ||
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Quote:
Quote:
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#549 |
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Lewdog here with another dumb and childish car care question.
I have never had leather seats before. You guys, knowing my OCD nature, know that I have been conditioning my leather seats every 3-4 weeks with a leather conditioner that has mink oil in it (supposed to be good). My seats are still getting really dark creases in them. Is that unavoidable with leather? I don't think it's cracking but more creases with how I sit on the seat every time I'm in the car. Here's the picture of the side of the seat looking towards the steering wheel. Is this unavoidable? ![]() |
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#550 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Buy black leather next time. It's easier to maintain.
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#551 |
MVP
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Looks like it might be dirt and your conditioner isn't cleaning it out? Might try a purpose built cleaner like lexol which is more of a soap scrub to clean out dirt and oils.
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#552 | |
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Quote:
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#553 |
Someone pass the antifreeze
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Miami (North Cuba)
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#554 | |
Mod Team
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley of the hot as ****
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Quote:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9I5FGE...I22S3EXXO0YNV0 Haven't seen you post much recently. Good to see you. |
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#555 |
Supporter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Scott City KS
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