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Old 09-24-2004, 08:25 AM  
Iowanian Iowanian is offline
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Location: Utopia
Handy-Man Corner

I'm tired of bad Chiefs news.....


I thought it would be a good idea for a thread on the Handy-Man.

Do you have any Home remedies, gadgets you've made, advice on car repair, home maint, sollutions to kill weeds in your yard, bugs in your garden?

Use Coke to clean your batteries? That type of stuff.
Home made floor dry?
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:33 PM   #361
cdcox cdcox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PastorMikH
Here's a question...


What can you use to get old latex paint off of woodwork without ruining the finish on the woodwork? Whoever has painted our house in the past was pretty sloppy in spots.
A bowl of antifeeze...
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:10 PM   #362
RJ RJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PastorMikH
BTW, tile update: Ended up going with 13"x13" porcelin tiles. The pattern looks like limestone. There is a floor guy in our church that sells them that let me have them at his cost so I picked the best he sold. I've got close to 400 ft2 for about $750 (Including frieght).

Very nice, 450 s/f of porcelain for $750 is a good price. That flooring dealer did you a good turn. Make sure to post some pics.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:22 PM   #363
Coach Coach is offline
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A Note to you folks:

Please, do not let your kid put a sponge in a bathtub drain, thinking the sponge is like SpongeBob Squarepants.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:36 PM   #364
JohninGpt JohninGpt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PastorMikH
Here's a question...


What can you use to get old latex paint off of woodwork without ruining the finish on the woodwork? Whoever has painted our house in the past was pretty sloppy in spots.
There is a product called "Goo Gone", sold in any wal-Mart or hardware store, that is used for removing adhesive residue or anything sticky. It should work well on old latex. If you want to work a little harder, try the warm washcloth that someone else recommended, latex is water based.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:38 PM   #365
JohninGpt JohninGpt is offline
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Originally Posted by Dave Lane
I installed a new dishwasher after 25 years with the old one. I'm happy about it!

Dave
Lawyer fees? Court cost?
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:01 AM   #366
PastorMikH PastorMikH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ
Very nice, 450 s/f of porcelain for $750 is a good price. That flooring dealer did you a good turn. Make sure to post some pics.


Since you are in floors, maybe you might know the tile I have (though I realize there are a lot of different brands and such). The Company is Earthwerks and I picked Tivoli Sand for the floor pattern with Tivoli Shadow as a border around the rooms.



BTW, why is it that my tile can come from Spain to Houston in tact but gets broke in transport from Houston to Ok City?
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:37 AM   #367
RJ RJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PastorMikH
Since you are in floors, maybe you might know the tile I have (though I realize there are a lot of different brands and such). The Company is Earthwerks and I picked Tivoli Sand for the floor pattern with Tivoli Shadow as a border around the rooms.



BTW, why is it that my tile can come from Spain to Houston in tact but gets broke in transport from Houston to Ok City?

Yes, I do know a tile called Tivoli. Is the one you purchased a shifting sands type pattern?

Tile always gets broken in transit. I've always assumed it has a softer ride on the ship to Houston or LA than it has after it gets unloaded.
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:56 AM   #368
PastorMikH PastorMikH is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Land of Red Dirt & Necks
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ
Yes, I do know a tile called Tivoli. Is the one you purchased a shifting sands type pattern?

Tile always gets broken in transit. I've always assumed it has a softer ride on the ship to Houston or LA than it has after it gets unloaded.

Sorta. I would guess it is more of a polished limestone look myself. At least it looks quite a bit like some of the limestone rock face I saw back in Missouri. It could be the sands though. The darker is the same pattern but looks like a shadow on it.


Our breakage was really VERY little. Out of 39 cases we had 8 tiles break and half of those broke when the delivery guy dropped a carton. The company is sending another carton for free to replace the broken ones. Of course I was trying to be really carefull with it as the temps were in the low 20s when I inspected and transfered from the truck to my van.
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:00 PM   #369
HemiEd HemiEd is offline
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Bump for Bogie.
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:32 PM   #370
bogie bogie is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: california
Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiEd
Bump for Bogie.
Thanks HemiEd I appreciate it.

I finally have my workshop cleaned up and ready for my next project. My wife has convinced me that I want to do built-in bookshelves. The wall the shelves will go on is approximately 14' wide with french doors in the middle. Therefore I will be building shelves on both sides as well over the top of the french doors. Basically surrounding the french doors with shelves. A few questions.

1. Should I build the shelves in my shop and install, or build them in place?
2. Where can I go to find free how-to plans. I'm not looking for plans to fit my layout, just plans for ideas on how to construct the shelves. Pictures would be very helpful. Yes Dad, you do need to draw me a picture.
3. The individual shelves will be permanent, they don't need to be adjustable. Can I support the shelves with a 1X2 under the the back and sides rather than have to do a dado? I have the skills and tools to do a dado, but a 1X2 would be so much easier and quicker.
4. It will be painted. Materials... MDF? Anything lighter or primed that you might suggest?

Any input you fellers have to offer on constructing buit-in book shelves would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
bogie (you can call me Jeff)
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:36 PM   #371
Phobia
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Built-in shelves will increase resale value, assuming you don't want to take them with you.
You should look for a book on shelving - try your library. There are few, if any free plans on the net.
You can use a 1x2 cleat if you plan to trim out the face with something that will cover that unsightly mess.
I'd use MDF only if there's no chance of leakage or condensation. You might consider the advantages of Melanine.
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:42 PM   #372
Bugeater Bugeater is offline
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1. Should I build the shelves in my shop and install, or build them in place? If you try to build them in place, don't expect your walls & corners to be perfectly plumb & square. Likewise ,if you build them in your shop, don't expect them to fit perfectly. If you don't mind the fact that you can't take them with you when you move I would recommend building them in place.
2. Where can I go to find free how-to plans. I'm not looking for plans to fit my layout, just plans for ideas on how to construct the shelves. Pictures would be very helpful. Yes Dad, you do need to draw me a picture. I'd look at how the closet & cabinet shelves are constructed in your home for ideas.
3. The individual shelves will be permanent, they don't need to be adjustable. Can I support the shelves with a 1X2 under the the back and sides rather than have to do a dado? I have the skills and tools to do a dado, but a 1X2 would be so much easier and quicker. Yes, that's a common method, but aesthetically the dado is best.
4. It will be painted. Materials... MDF? Anything lighter or primed that you might suggest?If you use MDF make sure it's the high-density MDF, it's not as porous and it finishes out better.
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:53 PM   #373
bogie bogie is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: california
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phobia
Built-in shelves will increase resale value, assuming you don't want to take them with you.
You should look for a book on shelving - try your library. There are few, if any free plans on the net.
You can use a 1x2 cleat if you plan to trim out the face with something that will cover that unsightly mess.
I'd use MDF only if there's no chance of leakage or condensation. You might consider the advantages of Melanine.
They're there to stay. You're probably right about the book. I've been trying google and haven't really had much luck. I would probaly trim the face with 1X2 as well. There's no chance of leakage or condensation (well, I say no chance) it's in my family room. I was considering Melanine, isn't it a glossy veneer over compressed particle board. Can it be painted?
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Old 01-23-2007, 06:02 PM   #374
bogie bogie is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: california
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugeater
1. Should I build the shelves in my shop and install, or build them in place? If you try to build them in place, don't expect your walls & corners to be perfectly plumb & square. Likewise ,if you build them in your shop, don't expect them to fit perfectly. If you don't mind the fact that you can't take them with you when you move I would recommend building them in place.
2. Where can I go to find free how-to plans. I'm not looking for plans to fit my layout, just plans for ideas on how to construct the shelves. Pictures would be very helpful. Yes Dad, you do need to draw me a picture. I'd look at how the closet & cabinet shelves are constructed in your home for ideas.
3. The individual shelves will be permanent, they don't need to be adjustable. Can I support the shelves with a 1X2 under the the back and sides rather than have to do a dado? I have the skills and tools to do a dado, but a 1X2 would be so much easier and quicker. Yes, that's a common method, but aesthetically the dado is best.
4. It will be painted. Materials... MDF? Anything lighter or primed that you might suggest?If you use MDF make sure it's the high-density MDF, it's not as porous and it finishes out better.
You're right, dado is best. I built a gun cabinet (for me), I used dados for lower shelves. but since it's a bookshelf for my wife 1X2 should suffice.
duh, I never thought about looking at my existing closets. That's a great idea!!! high-density MDF got it. Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2007, 06:26 PM   #375
Phobia
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No, you shouldn't paint melanine.
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