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I remember getting hit with a lot of soot and coal smoke on the Durango - Silverton line. You might research the best place to sit - also which side has the best views. I think you want to be as far back from the engine as possible to avoid the soot. Or maybe it was the other way around. Still it was very cool. I think we took the train up and a bus back or something.
Mesa Verde is awesome - Chaco Canyon is really cool too if you make it down that far (4 corners trip).
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