Ball Joints and Upper Control Arm 2004 Ford F150
I had my truck in the shop a few weeks ago for some unrelated stuff and they told me the lower ball joints were bad on my truck. I suspected something to that effect as I was getting the jumping around in the wheel and driving when I hit a pot hole or bump.
They didn't mention the upper ball joint on the control arm but since I have the entire thing tore apart anyway would you just go ahead and replace it? I have to replace the entire control arm if I do. It doesn't look horrible that I can tell but I ain't the best at diagnosing shit. If I watch some videos though I am great at tearing shit apart and putting back together. I just don't want to have to do this again anytime soon. What say you? |
Control arms are kind of pricey and there's less stress on the upper joint than the lower. I, personally, wouldn't change the upper/control arm unless there is actually wear. They dont' tend to wear anywhere near as fast as the lowers. I'd have them check the control arm bushings as well though just to be sure. If all looks good, do just the lowers and maybe outer tie rod ends.
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I read my wife your post and her response was the exact same as mine ROFL
I'm on the road right now but will explain when I get home. |
04 could have a couple different suspensions. Does yours have struts?
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Does the truck squeak when going over a bump or particularly rough patch of road? That'd indicate, more often than not, bad bushings. I had a slammed 88 s10 when I was younger and I currently have a lowered STI swapped 04 Forester. I'm pretty harsh on my suspensions. Each component gives you a unique feel and sometimes sound as they go..
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My Grand Cherokee has been doing that twitchy thing as well when I hit a bump or dip in the road, been wondering what the hell is causing that. Sucks if it is the ball joints/control arms because that's not a repair I'm going to take on myself.
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Ball joints will squeal very often. Much more likely than bushings |
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You recommended not changing the uppers because they weren't bad but then recommended replacement of the outer tie rod ends just out of the blue. That really mate no sense to me. |
And any one with a 5.4 3 valve hit me up when it goes. I install tons of them.
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Squeal or squeak? There's a distinct difference. I've destroyed enough bushings to know the difference. The bushings will constantly squeak as if you're bouncing on an old metal framed bed.
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I've had 4 Subarus and the rear suspension is comprised of 2 lateral links and a trailing arm per side. Each side has 6 bushings from the factory (not including the subframe/differential bushings which is another story for another day). Once you go aftermarket, you're looking at 12 per side. There is absolutely a difference between the sound of those bushings and ball joints, at least on my car, as I just did my ball joints the other day. |
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^ Bring it in for a look.
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At 15 years old just replace all the ball joints and install bushing eccentrics so it can be fully aligned afterwards.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg |
just spray them down with WD40!!!
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So here goes... When the ball joints begin to fail, there is much more vibration. That vibration and movement will be most noticeable at the outer tie rod ends, which are already adept at wearing in close proximity to the lower ball joints. The other factor here is that he's going to need an alignment anyhow, so why not replace the other part that will wear about as quickly right now and get one alignment done? If he doesn't, and they wear out in a few months, he's out another $100+ alignment fee. He did mention the symptom being the wheel jumping around, so it's very possible he has some rod damage already. He also mentioned not really wanting to do this again any time soon. It just seems for the extra $100, it'd be a wise time to do it. Edit: Also, interesting on the uppers. I can't recall ever having an upper fail under 200,000 miles. |
If it isn't broke, don't fix it.
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ROFLROFLROFL
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You forgot the pitman arm that's always bad on those gm products
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I giggled when he said ball joints.
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What's a 2004 Ford heritage other than a trim package? |
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Might need a new steering shaft joint too...... |
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The heritage is a totally different truck. Body style, engines, suspension, etc... |
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Like the one I'm doing as we speak. Oil pan and rear main on an 07 Denali. Greasy mess.. 46 minutes to have it all apart. Waiting on the parts store to open now.. |
WTF! Three pages in and no Fletch reference. Gentlemen it’s all ball bearings!
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Isn't a Heritage really just a 2003 with a 2004 title? It still had the old school linkage vs a rack like in 2005. I have not personally worked on a 2007 up GM trucks steering, that I want to remember, as I was referring to pre 2000 trucks (w/ drag links) that had movement in the ball joints when new. |
Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in?
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2- upper ball joints are above the lower ones 3- I would only replace it if it needs replaced it costs more to replace for some reason than if you don't replace it 4- rotate the air in all four tires, that front air has been tuned to hitting pot holes, now that your not going to hit them any more it just will not drive right. 5- Blinker fluid is optional as are muffler bearings. See, now you don't have to watch a video ! |
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Who knew balls had joints.
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Sorry I didn't respond to the questions... I was in the middle of the work and when I didn't get a response for a couple of hours I just went ahead and left it in. But to answer SAUTO's question, yes it has struts. This is not the Heritage, it is the 5.4L V8. I don't think it was bad so just left it. If I end up tearing it apart later so be it. The other side went way quicker than the first side since I knew what I was doing. First side probably took me 5 hours while the second side took me about half that. I did also have to change the 4wd actuator on the first side though. Although it was only 3 bolts to take it off since it was all tore apart anyways. The actuator had actually split around the ring from corrosion. The center part of the ring was basically dust.
Is there some trick to getting the anti lock brake sensor off? I ended up breaking part of the first one off after I took the screw out and tried prying it off. I just left it after that as I didn't want to really damage it. I just left it connected and got a bucket for the hub piece to sit on so it wasn't putting 25 pounds of weight on the cable. |
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you just unplug the other end of the sensor from inside the fender well and leave the sensor itself in the hub bearing... i put an actuator on one of those last thursday in less than 15 minutes:D |
Your talking Newtonian Physics now.
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You might want to replace the Fetzer valve while you're at it.
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https://i.pinimg.com/236x/03/38/a5/0...how-actors.jpg |
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