Interesting.

Why didn't you train the plants in any way? Techniques like mainlining to increase vascular cambium will only help to increase yield, uptake of nutrients in the same amount of space as a untrained tree. Don't be afraid to lollypop that bitch either. The under growth is just larfy material where it would be better suited to take that energy the plant is using to make that larf, and putting that energy into the tops.

How are they fed? Organic? Mineral based nutrients? Water source and it's PPM numbers? Your environment would greatly benefit organic feeding with a lasagna soil tech with cover crops. Look into it. I think you would be pleasantly surprised with how simple it is

I can't stress this enough with low plant count numbers. Focus on vegging. Top, top, top, and top even more.

Not enough light for a desk lamp cfl.

Look into a inexpensive t5 light help with the stretch. Place as close as you can without causing any heat stress. Place a fan on them to move the stems, which will help with the stop the stretch and harden the plant from seedling to vegetative stage.

Top as the second set of nodes allow you to. This will take you from 1 top to 4 tops. Keep topping as new growth happens. Look up a technique called main lining.


maybe phenotype or just a lack of sun and/or nutrients. :shrug:



Cold temps or genetic?





Good luck with that. Australian postal system is notoriously good at finding seeds. Probably the best in the world. Best luck would probably be Attitude Seedbank out of the UK. You might even have some half ass guarantee available if they don't arrive.

Make Ice water hash, Frenchy Canoli style.

I had some Grape Kush for March Madness. It was good but not amazing. A little dry by the time I got it. I'm more of a sativa guy and this was a 60/40 hybrid.

i knew the desk cfl wouldn't be enough but the wife wanted to try. so i was not surprised by this result, what i am surprised about is that any of them made it this far. not going to do anything that requires additional lighting anymore. i will sprout seeds in the spring and after the last freeze place them in the garden.

i was joking about seeds in shoe tracks, or bead jar. :D

up until this week the temps have been very good, even got a dry summer for once. right now is the time the leaves will start turning on all vegetation.

this grow was too important for me to goof around with. i have done lst training in the past, and next year i will be 'topping' the plant in the garden. its simply a work in progress.

nature fed my plants with a little help of sea sol :thumb:

My only issue with starting seeds outside in the ground is the potential damage done by a variety of issues at that young of a stage. Weather(pun intended) it be a just a unusually cold morning, the bugs, the animals, etc. That isn't even taking into consideration of culling of weak or unstable phenotypes that is a huge requirement to a successful harvest. I think it is always wise in a low plant count situation to start indoors and acclimate to the sun in a methodical manner to not increase any stress or light burn from moving them indoors to outdoors.

Properly training them can easily double yield on the low end. Quadruple if you do it right. FWIW here is the result I am talking about. These are outdoor plants done right.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WCRgSS2l6mI" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Glad to hear to were only joking. Importing seeds into Australia is very risky. Better option for you would be to find 2 genotypes you like, select a pheno(mom & dad) from each of those genotypes. Select a male from one using traditional stem rub and abundance of resin. Flower the mom and start spreading pollen around day 10-15 depending on the cultivar. Repeat weekly until about Day 35. Take the plant a little longer than normal to insure seed viability. You will have F1 seeds with all the advantage of being able to find that elite cut. And with proper storage you will have seeds for decades.

If you need any help, don't hesitate to PM me any time your next run. I am all about educating those to be able to take themselves out of a criminal market and be more self sufficient in providing for themselves.

None.

**** you

given my plants are out in open air, how durable is the plant regarding light frosts, IYO?

got down almost to zero last night for a couple hours. the weather for the next week is zero chance of frost. :thumb:

It will stress the plant resulting in stunted growth and yield.

i am within a couple weeks of harvest anyways. my top garden plants seem unaffected, going to check the big moms in a few minutes.

my question was more so, given the massive size of the girls are they more durable during the end stages of flower. :thumb:

Absolutely more durable. I tried drying on the plant once and it took forever for it to die.

But a few hours of frost won't do anything you'd notice. If frost is present on the plant, I'd wash it off with water before the sun hits it and melts it as this can cause cellular damage. Again, nothing you'd really notice, especially this close to harvest. It's a hearty weed. Newbs can model growing tomato's and do well.

technically i am old hat at this growing thing, but still some scenarios i may have waded thru luckily okay, its still nice having trusted reinforcement for different hazards or helps :thumb:

Plants hardiness to cold all depends on a variety of factors, but at the same time you just can't escape the effects of mother nature to dictate the end of a season.

I am guessing you mean 0 Celcius. If it were 0 Farenheit I would say it's over. A plant can survive a few hours in the cold, but repeated dips of dips below 50 degrees Farenheit are going to cause problems. At 50 degrees the plant is going to stop producing flowers, root growth drastically reduces and the plant goes what you can call survival mode. Hermaphrodite nanners can show by continued stress from the cold. Have you checked soil temps?

Do not rinse flowers with water at such a late stage. You would only be inviting bud rott. If it has frost on it, give it a shake or 2 to see it falls off. It it doesn't and a continued cold is expected. Chop, chop. You could cover the plant with plastic during cold dips to help it survive the cold.