Absolutely. Im planning to do a bunch of traveling with the car this year so that could work out.

Which manufacturer is that?

Those are big money and are heavy

https://www.mobsteel.com/wp-content/...whWwAADSGw.jpg

Detroit Streel Wheel https://www.mobsteel.com/wp-content/...l-Borchure.pdf

https://detroitsteelwheel.com/wp-con...Price-List.pdf

RACE CAR SEASON BOYS++++++++++

I'm not sure what you are asking here...

But I drill those broken studs out all the time, blind . Without pulling the motor.

They are but goddamn they look good and right

Dude... you get close to me yell. I'll come meet you. Hell we could hit hit Summer nights in Versailles and **** with hometeam

It’s always race car season.

So, 3/8 flange is the way to go??

TIA

Stage 8 fasteners rock.
I've got a set of Hooker headers on the 327 in my Jeep and had constant problems with them shaking header bolts loose and blowing out the exhaust gasket even though I would go around and re-tighten header bolts after each heat cycle. I hate the sound of exhaust leaks, each and every tick sounds like lost horsepower, and I was changing exhaust gaskets about once every month or two to eliminate them. Out of desperation I tried some Stage 8 fasteners and while they were a bit of a bitch to put on they have eliminated the issue, I haven't had an exhaust leak in the 5 years since I put them on.

Buy decent headers and a quality copper gasket and you’re fine.

They do build stuff that works.

Lets do the damn thing. Car is done with paint picking it up on monday, no more primer hood~

in your neck of the woods maybe~

ROFL I was thinking the same thing -- if I lived in Florida that would totally be true.

the season is now in full swing boys~

Anyone thinking about coming down Mid-Missouri way for one of the Sonic Summer Nights, Magic Dragon, Etc?

https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram...ninstagram.com

I'll be a magic dragon next weekend I think. Doubtful I have anything ready though. The throttle pedal assy for the 48 isn't here yet.

I'm going to definitely take the Camaro to some hot summer nights this year.

I've also got a 67 cuda that we're putting a new hemi and a tremec 6 speed in. All qa1 suspension. It should be pretty cool when it gets done. we're going to be in on the ground floor on making this thing work. Everyone else had done autos when doing this swap before and no one makes headers for the right side starter.

But i'm going to figure it out.

I should be at every Sonic Summer Nights barring rain. Will be out at magic dragon saturday night after work, my sister owns an apartment complex on the strip so i have real close parking when I decide to stop cruising/heatsoaking

Im fighting a damn problem with my car that has me baffled to this point. On the way home from a cruise the other night it started missing and acting like it was loading up. Started to clear up and ran ok for a bit, got home and it didn't want to idle. Parked it until morning and started it and it was missing like crazy.

Long story short i pulled the plugs and they looked a little fouled but not soaked or anything. I changed them anyway and with new plugs it was still missing. Badly like timing was off.

Pulled cap and checked distributor and timing etc...it all checked out fine. So I ran data log on the FI system and found some weird shit.

AIC Fuel trim is running -33% so its cutting fuel like crazy and the AFR is running 10:1 to 11:1 with the set point at 14.5:1. But it doesn't smell fat at all.

I wonder if the O2 sensor is bad and reading low so its cutting fuel causing the missing?

Can you read your o2 numbers?

Can you tell which cylinder has the miss?

Yea I can watch it live on the hand held and it keeps dropping to 10:1 when I can get it to idle.

Its not 1 cylinder missing its just an all around shit show. I can shut the damn thing off and restart it and it will run ok for a minute then go to shit again.

THE IAC was reading 255 meaning it was wide open, I got that to drop but now its all over the place with everything else.

Damn. Did you try to unplug the o2? Does it run a maf?

:hmmm:Haven't tried that. It has a MAP sensor not a MAF.

MAP readings are comparable to a good log I have.

Well that should at least rule out a valve issue or something plugged in the exhaust I would think.

And with the IAC jumping around too I would think it's gotta be electrical? Alternator or ground?

Do you only get AFR readings or can you actually see the voltages the O2 is putting out. (Not real versed in the set up you are running lol these questions might sound dumb)

I can only see the O2 reading. Its all part of the hand held unit that came with the EFI.

Its possible its an electrical issue since it so erratic but ill be damned if I know what. I guess i can start running wires.

I'll call and probably send the log to FiTech tomorrow to see what they say.

Damn thing has been trouble free for a long time and just went to shit, I know its a specific problem but damn near anything makes them go wacky.

Definitely a sensor issue, I have been fighting a similar issue with my IAT getting heatsoaked after parking, figured it out just by messing with the sensor by manually spraying meth into the intake tract. Maybe IAT>? Only a few sensors are going to mess with fueling..

could also be coolant temp sensor, 02, map.

One thing I just noticed comparing an old log to today its flowing about 25% more fuel tt idle than it was before.

Im thinking an o-ring in the throttle body may be bad or an injector is sticking.

FiTech is sending me a software update to try first with better algorithms etc..:shrug:

Tech also said it sounds like it could be O2 sensor which is a factory GM part so if thats it it should be a quick fix.

We shall see.

Hey Hometeam or Sauto have you ever heard of the Coffeyville Street Races? I went last weekend to watch a buddy of mine race. Pretty good event with some real quick cars.

one wire o2?

I heard coffeyville is a damn good time. When is their next event?

Buffalo has burn out comps on certain Saturday nights. And they do them on a little road just of 65 hwy. It's pretty fun to catch some really nice cars and some REAL pieces of shit just burn the **** out of some rubber. I thought about taking the black truck down and blowing the tires off before I put the new ones on.

But my luck one would go and rip the bed off or something...

I'm not certain off the top of my head.


They don't have any events listed right now, they usually do a late summer event.

If I can get my POS fixed I could definitely make it to Buffalo.

Well tax season was bad....but I expected it to be worse. As a result Imma spend some money on the Camaro (67, for those who don't constantly update themselves on what car I'm driving). It desperately needs new wheels/tires so I'm going back to the original 15'' Corvette Rally look with white-letter tires, etc....

That alone should improve handling tremendously through getting rid of some rub, getting back to original suspension geometry and giving me some !@#$ing sidewall, but I'm thinking of trying to squeeze another upgrade or two in there while my wife lets me get the checkbook out.

I'm thinking of a Delphi 600 series power steering box to upgrade the firmness and feel of the steering in the front. Anyone have comments/experience with that one? Damn its expensive for a steering box but they are, by all accounts, amazing improvements in the driveability of the car.

Also considering some suspension improvements in the front and back - miiiiight switch to coil-overs in the front but it might be overkill. I put in some Global West upper control arms a couple years back and those made a massive difference; I feel like I'm right on the edge of having a damn near daily driver caliber car if I just make another couple of tweaks. Should I just see how it drives with actual sidewalls first? I feel like that could make a huge difference on its own.

The rear is bouncy and unsure but again, same issue there- maybe a sidewall will improve matters. If not, I think a 4-link is DEFINITELY overkill, anybody have some middle of the road ideas that will improve right quality and eliminate that bounce without making me feel every road perfection? I feel like the options in the back on the Gen 1s are pretty limited.

Anything else y'all wanna spend some of my money on? Y'all told me to get that damn Holley Sniper for 2 years before I did it and it's the best purchase I've made for the car, hands down. Someone hooked me up with his supplier for the control arms as well so y'all are pretty good about knowing your shit and I'll gladly listen to what you have to say.

More side wall also means more flex, so keep that in mind. The ride quality will be better than something with a low profile sidewall but you might also experience more roll.

Coil Overs are never a bad idea. You say it may be overkill, but i highly disagree. You mention wanting to go back to factory geometry, and while im not sure about Camaros, but factory geometry in the Mustangs and other Fords is garbage. The best aftermarket suspension kits are the ones that completely throw away the factory geometry.

Aldan American makes a really nice Coil Over set up. I mean, a lot of companies do but much like i recommended Global West, I'll make some recommendations.

Buy Aldan American. Or, go back to Global West and see if you can purchase some Viking Coil Overs through them. They also offer QA1, but the Viking includes a 2 year warranty compared to QA1's 1 year warranty. I've had good feedback about Hotchkis too.

And as i told you when you bought the Global West arms, speak with Doug. He's THE man if you decide to call Global West. He'll get you into the correct coil over with the proper spring rate.

As far as your steering goes, we've had great success using the Borgeson Power Steering boxes. They're not a rack, but they're better than factory power steering. However, if you're running headers be prepared that you may have to modify the driver side header. They're direct bolt ins for cars with factory manifolds, if you have headers however the steering linkage may or may not clear. Depends on your header.

Another possible solution is an Electric Steering Assist. EPAS makes a kit. I have one sitting on the shelf that they promo'd us for an install (haven't gotten around to it). One of my local customers installed one in hi '66 Mustang and loved it. But you'll need to run at minimum a 100 amp alternator if you don't already have one, and be prepared to cut your column. (You'll need to cut the column for Borgeson box too, just not in the same place).

And IMO DJ, you need to lay the dick down hella good and get your woman to understand that you NEED to spend money on your suspension.

Suspension and brakes in classics are things you simply do not cheap out on. If you don't do it right and spend the $$$ you won't be happy and it'll just end up money down the drain as you look for yet another replacement/upgrade.

Bite the bullet. Get the good shit.

If you can, take $4K and put it into your FRONT suspension.

I agree that a 4-link the rear is overkill. It's overkill for most people even though people will throw money at it anyway. Unless you're having wheel hop issues, a good set of Leafsprings is just fine. Global West makes a good set IIRC.

Yeah I've heard there can be some clearance issues w/ the new boxes. My buddy said I should consider a 400 series box as they're smaller and should fit pretty easily but I'm not sure; seems like it would sorta defeat the purpose.

Fair point regarding the geometry - mostly I just want to get my janxy ass spring boosters out of the front end to get my raked stance back. I hate that the car sits level to slightly nose up - just irritating (and above 90 she dances; it's not reassuring). I'm thinking 15s in the front and 16s in the back (maaaaybe 17s) with wheels that actually fit the damn fenders can give me the proper stance again. So yeah, 'factory geometry' is overstating it, but I want a properly aggressive stance back.

Haven't heard of EPS - this need a rack put in or anything? You know of any advantages/disadvantages to just putting in an upgraded box? I'll do some digging into how they work but a cliffsnotes version would be appreciated (as I go crosseyed when engineers get awfully impressed by their new inventions....)

Thanks for the insight on the coil-overs. Like the Sniper, I just kinda keep talking myself out of it but I'm pretty sure I know I'll be damn pleased with it if I ever get it done. Would you recommend focusing more on the front end before dicking with the rear?

Guess that answers my last question - throw money at the front.

Regarding your brake comments - trying to decide if I need to put discs in the rear as well. I don't know that I do, but I sure would like it. It's amazing how much you notice how little stopping power you're getting from the back when you're....getting no stopping power from the back. I know physics dictate that your front is gonna do more of it anyway but with rear drums (and kinda shitty ones at that), it sure does seem like a struggle to bring her to heel sometimes.

EPAS hasn't been around for too long. Less than 10 years if i had to guess. Geoff is the man over there though if you need more info on their systems.

https://epasperformance.com/collecti...evrolet-camaro

No, a rack is not needed. These units are Electric Steering assist and are designed to work with factory components. Like i said, the Column will need to be modified. Or, the kit can be purchased with an already modified IDIDIT column (and i would recommend a column too if you have excessive steering slop)

As far as which has an advantage over another? Eh. Hard to say. I think it comes down to preference. One advantage over electric is that you don't have to run any fluid lines which is nice. No matter which way you go, you're going to like it.

BUT, at the cost of an EPAS system, you're now in steering rack territory. Not the BEST racks, but you're now in the Unisteer rack price range. I typically don't recommend Unisteer racks however. They don't play nice with aftermarket geometry. At least in the Mustangs. But it is something for you to consider. My choice? I'd go with a Borgeson box over a unisteer rack. But i'd take a higher end rack (Flaming River?) over a Borgeson box.

And yes, absolutely focus on the front. I often times have to talk customers out of spending $2K on a 4-link in favor of better front suspension/steering & braking. If your front is dialed in then by all means, otherwise you'll get more return on your investment in the front/brakes.

But, if you decide to bite the bullet and go with a full suspension conversion, the Mustang II kits are by far the best bang for you buck. It's not even close, part for part cost vs cost.

(Mustang II kits have almost nothing do with an actual MII. The name refers to the design which was lifted from MII cars, but does not share the same parts etc. Ironically, you cannot actually put a MII kit in an actual Mustang II)

GM Guys will refer to them as IFS Subframe Kits. But it's the same damn thing. But that's for when you're ready to drop $4K-ish and completely overhaul the front end.

Depends on your budget. Nothing wrong with a nice set of drums. Sure, disc is better. But i've driven cars that stop perfectly fine with new drum components in the rear. I can get you into a 10.5", single piston w/ internal park brake caliper for about $750 before shipping. Worth it? Sure, assuming what's applying pressure to said pistons isn't the problem.

What are you doing for a brake booster/master? Because if you have manual brakes then you need to upgrade to some form of power brakes ASAP, well before considering rear discs. Whether that be a standard vacuum booster, a hydroboost or an Electric Brake Master Cylinder.

If you do have power, sometimes it may just be as simple as a shitty booster/master. I'm reminded of a car we did a brake job on a few months ago. The kid brought us in parts he purchased (we typically don't like that) for install. New booster, new Wilwood brakes up front. Despite that, it still stopped like ass. It was better than when we received it, but i'm 100% confident that the booster/master he bought sucks shit. It happens. My point being that your drums might not be the problem.

Oh, and you mentioned the Sniper EFI, DJ:

See this issue Marcellus is dealing with? **** man, we have yet to install any of these TBI style EFI kits and not have SOME sort of problem.

For the most part they're good. And the initial installs go smooth. But when it comes to these "self learning" tunning systems, they're riddled with issues. I was much higher on these kits a year or two ago than i am today. My customer who installed the EPAS kit also installed the Sniper EFI kit and he still hasn't gotten it dialed in quite right yet. Next time i see him i'll ask him exactly what the issue is, but he's complained to me a lot about it. He took it to one of the best Tunning shops in SD and they can't get it right either. So idk....

I'm not so confident anymore that there's any great aftermarket EFI kits out there. These EFI TBI kits are just littered with complaint after complaint. Buggy issue after issue. Whether it's Holley, Fi-Tech, Retrotek....whomever.

My Holley had a bit of a bitch fit a month or so after I got it where it just...re-set. It was strange, it just dropped all its inputs and effectively put me in limp mode. I could get it up to about 55 by simply not getting it over maybe 1500 RPM but if I tried to put my foot in it at all it just roared a lot and went nowhere.

I got it into the mechanic, he plugged it in and just looked very confused. "It's just not there" isn't exactly something you want to hear. He just put the programming back in, wrote it down for me with a cheat sheat so I could try to do it myself if I really needed to and it's been clean ever since.

I guess 'dialed in quite right' is the operative term here. I'm not sure if mine's as perfect as it could be, but it runs a hell of a lot better than it ever ran with that Demon 750 on there.

Ultimately my cam is just so damn big and aggressive that it's really hard to keep a carburetor dialed in. Or at least it's over my head and I don't feel like taking it in every month to get it tuned back up. And honestly, when you talk about the brakes, I'm pretty sure they're a vacuum system and {last horse enters the barn} that massive cam and lousy vacuum I get at idle could really be creating some of the poor braking I'm experiencing.

I'll have to look over some of that stuff when I get a minute as I just can't recall off the top of my head. At some point I'm gonna yank that Cam out as well - I know it will make it snarl a little less (at 800 rpm that lope it has is just incredible) but it'll clean up some other issues along the way.

I could replace the cam and get some guillotine style cutouts with electric switches so I can just open them up when I want to be really obnoxious, I suppose...

Looking into your Aldan American stuff - what's the fit for the rear shock absorbers as well and are they worthwhile? The idea of running some dampening on those rear springs to deal with the rebound seems awfully appealing in terms of ride quality.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aax-300115/overview/

This what you were thinking?

Fronts cost $500 or so; both front and back looks to be around $900.00. Worth the extra $400 or should I throw that into the steering box upgrades?

Or should I really just give me wife unlimited oral privileges for 90 days and insist on all of the above?

If i had an order to do it in i'd go:

1. Steering Box (assuming your front shocks/springs aren't shot)

2. Front Coil Over

Address the rear when you feel like it or if it fits into your budget right now. It should take lower priority assuming you have serviceable suspension back there.

But if you have a vacuum issue i'd address that. If you decide that swapping the cam isn't in the cards right now then maybe consider a booster that doesn't require vacuum, like a Hydroboost or an Electric Brake Master Cylinder.

When we build cars in the shop, suspension and brakes take priority over everything. Those are the two things that will allow you to drive the car confidently. What good is HP if you don't like driving the car because you're worried it won't stop or if it feels wonky on the freeway? If you have confident brakes and suspension you'll probably find yourself driving the car a lot more. It'll feel more like a car instead of a weekend novelty. And in terms of suspension, front is more important than rear by a mile. Rear suspension becomes more of a concern in higher torque builds, or cars with Coyote 5.0 swaps.

If it's a full build, we equip all of our cars with an Electric Brake Master cylinder. It's the best pedal feel of the 3 popular options and delivers about 500 PSI more than a vacuum booster. A customer may have dreams of 13", 6-piston brakes, but we'll force a smaller rotor/piston count in favor of a superior master cylinder if his budget doesn't allow for both.

Hydrboosts are nice, though they require some extra plumbing and the pedal still doesn't feel as rock hard as an Electric Brake Master.

Just my 2cents and how WE go about handling it. Everyone has their own opinion of course.

Yea they all have their issues. It pisses me off because it had been trouble free for over a year and half I think.

As complicated as they are they're not as forgiving to little problems that carbs don't care about so a lot of pain is self inflicted, and then there are the inherent flaws in systems that trying to do it all for everyone.

I actually plan to get mine tuned and turn off the learning software once I add the procharger, you can set a tune just like for other systems and make them non self learning. That removes all the algorithm and PID loop problematic shit.

Also, DJ, if you decide to purchase from Aldan American directly, Garrett is the man over there.

He's not a sales guy, he's actually the CEO like Doug is for Global West. But i think he does help with sales and if you have the choice, talk to him. He's my go-to contact when i place orders. Not sure if he just does that with vendors or not. But if you can, go through him.

Their website directs you to Summit so I figured they weren't much for the direct purchase game. As a general rule I'll purchase direct if it helps the manufacturer make a little more money from the deal - just didn't seem as though they'd give me a redirect to Summit or Jegs if that was what they preferred.

I'm just gonna...do it. I mean, she can't tell me no if I don't tell her what I'm up to. I'll just pay the bill and she'll see it on the statement and I'll tell her "well that's what stuff costs on an old car...." She won't know any better.

I'm pretty sure Marcellus recommended the Borgeson unit as well so it seems like it comes pretty highly recommended. I was thinking of going DSE or the Delphi 600 that Rick's Camaro sells (think that's what I'd stumbled onto a couple years back) but i'll definitely circle back on the Borgeson.

I hear that sometimes. We've experienced that too. The last one we did (don't recall the brand) was to a 351W A/C Cobra replica kit car.

Initially, it sucked shit. Ran like ass. We had it tuned by a professional tuning shop, then it ran great for awhile.

A few months later it was running like shit again. Tuning shop thought the self learning was the problem.

I just called Aldan American. Yes, they will take your order if you call them. Otherwise they direct you to Summit/Jegs because it's cheaper.

And man, LMAO regarding the wife thing, i have a funny story:

So a few years back, this guy calls me up. For about a week or two we go over suspension options, estimates etc. We've settled in on about $10K worth of suspension/brakes for his Mustang.

He's finally ready to pull the trigger so calls me up to finalize the order. But this time, he's whispering over the phone.

He tells me that we have to do this quickly, as his wife is home and doesn't want her to find out. Apparently he's in the room upstairs trying to get the order placed.

So he's giving me the card info and then next you know someone else picks up the other line. It's his wife! Oh man all hell breaks lose. She's givin' him "the business" over his "stupid car" blah blah blah LMAO LMAO. Next thing ya know, click. I get hung up on.

The very next day he calls me back, this time from work and we finish the order. But we're going to make sure everything is shipped to his work address, work email, work phone number etc LMAO. Wife still can't know about it, but damnit he's getting his front and rear coil over kit, big brakes, rack etc.

Driving my 2013 Ford Focus AT (with the shit dual clutch), when I feel the transmission slip, and now have a warning that my transmission needs service ASAP. I know I am covered because these POS cars now have a 100,000 mile warranty for said transmission/clutch. My issue is if its the dual clutch, this will be the 4th time (under 80,000) I have to bring it back. Do I have any recourse against Ford on this (buy back, lemon laws, ect)? This car is likely worth less than dog shit on the aftermarket because of these issues.

If you aren't changing the whole suspension package I would definitely recommend the Borgeson. Mine worked great, well worth the money.

Man...

My wife bitches at me to SPEND money on our cars. I'm so lucky in that regards.

In the past two months she's spent a ton on the camaro we bought. But it's a whole different car now. Headlights and side markers came in today. And I've gotta say she picked good looking ones

Sounds like you have a good plan, do you ever get it out to shows around here?

I dont know enough about that chassis to know what you should spend your money on..

but **** it

LS SWAP.

See ya around~

Pretty sure there is a class action lawsuit going

I have never been, but heard they are bad ass

I have buddies who have raced in them in previous seasons, all 3 of the cars are down at the moment for various reasons~

Update on the Chevy II.

I sent my throttle body to FiTEch they turned it around in a few days and sent it back no charge. Replaced the ECU and for some reason changed out a 6 prong plug to 2 separate plugs, a 4 and 2 prong with a larger power wire. They sent the new wiring for those plugs along with ZERO directions. Luckily after looking at it for about 10 minutes I figured out what they had done.

Good news is with the new software I reentered the motor settings, fired it up, adjusted the IAC and its ran like a champ since. I think it actually runs better than it did before. I've only put about 50 miles on it but I am considering turning the learning off on it right now.

That's awesome. Pretty easy fix. Love it when they send no directions.



I had a brand new 5.3 in a 10 last 500 miles because some jackass at the factory forgot a wrist pin keeper.

I've got some good pictures of it if I can ever get to a computer to upload them

God dammit PM me back. I am left hanging here worried sick about you!!!!

If you were cool enough you would have his number and could text him. Doubt it will happen though, he told me Mustang guys aren’t cool enough for that.

BRB.

Getting a Dodge Dart.

**** man. I hardly ever check them. I'm sorry. Just had some questions over a therapy type thing.

I'll explain when I get home.

ROFL.

Can anyone help me out with a carfax? pm me

What you buying?

A car...

:spock:

Just making conversation.

Guess that’s not allowed....

I'm just ****ing with ya man. Love ya bro.. No homo...

I bet you have a nice Camero.

Do I have to laugh at that?

Are you new here? 2002 Silverado man... Pffffft...

I hated the new Camero's look when they came out. Now, they are kinda of growing on me.

I just got word that Roush has finished upfitting my new F150. Can't wait for this supercharged bitch! Already ordered these two items for it.
https://truxedo.com/sentry-ct
https://www.amp-research.com/amp-res...werstep-xtreme

With a little luck I'll have it next week!

Did u order a tailgate from GMCROFLROFL to match your steps?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QlVR6b27dEc?start=10" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Ha ha, nope. I considered a GMC because of that tailgate. Ended up liking the Doors more though.

Fords ****ing suck bud.

Whatever, dude. My family currently owns a BMW, 2 Chevy's, a Suzuki, a Ford, and a Lexus. I don't give a damn what the brand is. I just look for the best fit for what I want at the time.
You still got that S197?

Yes I still have it.

Just ****ing with you! ROFL

Oh, I knew you were ****ing with me. I came across the VIN for my old S197 a few weeks ago. I'm thinking about tracking it down. No clue where to start really. I want that car back no matter the current condition.

Damn it, I just thumbs downed your post Lew. How do I change that to thumbs up? I do that all the damn time on my phone somehow. Anyone??