ChiefsPlanet

ChiefsPlanet (https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/index.php)
-   Nzoner's Game Room (https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/forumdisplay.php?f=1)
-   -   Home and Auto ***Official Car and Gearhead Thread*** (https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showthread.php?t=291377)

cooper barrett 10-20-2018 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13829907)
I'm sure I am spinning my wheels here but...."hydrostaticed"



Fluid flow = Fuel entering cylinder
Pressure= Intake valve closes and piston raises.
Energy Transfer = Liquid does not compress therefore "boom"



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vMYILoMYdpE?controls=0&amp;start=17" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

SAUTO 10-20-2018 12:14 PM

Sadly last I checked no one had figured out how to crack the 8speed trans controller so I haven't been able to do my truck yet. Was hoping they figured it out by the time it hit 60k. We may be starting over soon though.

Up to almost 20k to repair it at this point and they still wouldn't total it

Marcellus 10-20-2018 01:52 PM

https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

hometeam 10-20-2018 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13829921)
Sadly last I checked no one had figured out how to crack the 8speed trans controller so I haven't been able to do my truck yet. Was hoping they figured it out by the time it hit 60k. We may be starting over soon though.

Up to almost 20k to repair it at this point and they still wouldn't total it

I heard my guy talking about this the other day. somebody has it figured out and its like 5 grand to tune it~

lewdog 10-20-2018 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

I absolutely love your car. Great picture too.

Enjoy the ride man.

GloryDayz 10-20-2018 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

:clap::clap::clap::clap:

cooper barrett 10-20-2018 04:10 PM

That is a Sweet 65 Nova.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.


lewdog 10-20-2018 04:23 PM

How close are you to lake of the ozarks, Marcellus?

I’m thinking of relocating there.

Buehler445 10-20-2018 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

Looks good boss.


Couldn’t you just enlarge the holes with a Die grinder?

Buehler445 10-20-2018 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13829710)
I've got a 14 5.3 at the shop that absolutely grenaded. Probably the worst I've ever seen. Broke the block from head to head on the back 2 cylinders, broke both heads, blew the upper oil pan in two all the way to the balancer , broke the starter, broke the bellhousing and case on the transmission, broke 2 torque cover bolts, broke the ac compressor, ripped the wiring harness in two.

I've never seen anything like it.

A dealer in Minnesota claimed it was the afm that caused it, said the valves must have worked when they weren't supposed to and allowed fuel to get into those cylinders and it exploded.


Its direct injected:facepalm:

Christ.

Those engines good? I’m probably going to trade my pickup this winter and it will probably be something in that generation.

My buddy ordered a 19 and I’m super jealous. Like SUPER jealous.

Miles 10-20-2018 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

This thing looks great.

Marcellus 10-21-2018 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 13830193)
How close are you to lake of the ozarks, Marcellus?

I’m thinking of relocating there.

3 hours Lew. That a fun place from what I understand. You looking to experience winter?

Marcellus 10-21-2018 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13830628)
Looks good boss.


Couldn’t you just enlarge the holes with a Die grinder?

Thought about it but would rather have someone machine it. It may come to that.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830945)
Thought about it but would rather have someone machine it. It may come to that.

Machining it would definitely be better, but I don't think I could ever bring myself to pay someone for a half inch of slot.

Besides, if I tried it, I'd just pay someone a mountain of money, and they'd just use a die grinder ROFL

SAUTO 10-21-2018 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13830630)
Christ.

Those engines good? I’m probably going to trade my pickup this winter and it will probably be something in that generation.

My buddy ordered a 19 and I’m super jealous. Like SUPER jealous.

I didn't like the 19s. To me they look like a Ford and a Toyota had a baby. ROFL.

But first one anyone I've talked to had seen blow up

lewdog 10-21-2018 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830943)
3 hours Lew. That a fun place from what I understand. You looking to experience winter?

Wait you’ve never been?

And what kind of winter are we talkimg? Also, the humidity has me scared. I’ve been told I’ll fit right in with ghetto Mustang so that’s good.

Marcellus 10-21-2018 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 13830975)
Wait you’ve never been?

And what kind of winter are we talkimg? Also, the humidity has me scared. I’ve been told I’ll fit right in with ghetto Mustang so that’s good.

We live much closer to Table Rock Lake so that's where we go for lake time.

Humidity will take longer to get used to than the winter weather. All in all its not bad.

Marcellus 10-21-2018 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13830974)
I didn't like the 19s. To me they look like a Ford and a Toyota had a baby. ROFL.

But first one anyone I've talked to had seen blow up

I don't know thats pretty sharp.

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/da...g?imwidth=1200

IA_Chiefs_fan 10-21-2018 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13831125)

I love the look of the 19's. I'd consider trading my Raptor if I didn't have to give up horsepower and torque. Sucks that GM has nothing to compete with my little V6. I also really like the new GMC tailgate design.

Edit: I also love my 10-speed trans and that would be difficult to give up.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13830974)
I didn't like the 19s. To me they look like a Ford and a Toyota had a baby. ROFL.

But first one anyone I've talked to had seen blow up

His is a GMC. It looks really nice. He’s getting the 6.2. The one he test drove he put it in race mode and it is ****ing fast.

I laugh my ass off because he checks on it like 3 times a week and they are taking forever.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 12:07 PM

Good to know the 14-17 5.3s are good. I know they redesigned them for that generation.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13831445)
His is a GMC. It looks really nice. He’s getting the 6.2. The one he test drove he put it in race mode and it is ****ing fast.

I laugh my ass off because he checks on it like 3 times a week and they are taking forever.

Yeah. My 18 is a 6.2 with an 8 speed. I think the 19 has a 10 speed.

I've seen it in person and hated it. The bank end sits up much higher than mine

SAUTO 10-21-2018 12:59 PM

https://imgur.com/a/SXvcDXFhttp://https://imgur.com/a/SXvcDXF

SAUTO 10-21-2018 01:02 PM

If someone could get that picture to show I would appreciate it. I didn't like the look at all.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13831468)
Good to know the 14-17 5.3s are good. I know they redesigned them for that generation.

I get better fuel mileage out of my 6.2 than I ever did with the 5.3. Also 6 vs 8 speed. Last time I drove it to kc and back I averaged 23.6 miles to the gallon

I drove a rental Tacoma to kc yesterday and to be totally honest I average over 6 miles a gallon better on that trip in my big truck.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 02:09 PM

https://i.imgur.com/zS8ESo1_d.jpg?ma...idelity=medium

Yeah. That looks horrible. I don’t recall the one he drove looking like that.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13831866)
https://i.imgur.com/zS8ESo1_d.jpg?ma...idelity=medium

Yeah. That looks horrible. I don’t recall the one he drove looking like that.

Thanks for the help. I'm horrible at that. Lol

Thats a Chevy. I hate the look. I don't like the wrap around front fenders either. Ford and a Toyota mix.

I didn't even drive it.

But I can't find an 18 new with all my options either so I don't know what the **** i'm going to do. Probably drive this one a little longer. Just sucks.

But the new expedition will almost pass for a Tahoe. They will alllook the same soon.

MIAdragon 10-21-2018 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13831625)
Yeah. My 18 is a 6.2 with an 8 speed. I think the 19 has a 10 speed.

I've seen it in person and hated it. The bank end sits up much higher than mine

It’s nothing a simple leveling kit can’t fix, the rest of the look not so much.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13831924)
It’s nothing a simple leveling kit can’t fix, the rest of the look not so much.

I know all about the leveling kits lol. I just hate the look too.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13831625)
Yeah. My 18 is a 6.2 with an 8 speed. I think the 19 has a 10 speed.

I've seen it in person and hated it. The bank end sits up much higher than mine

So is yours a Denali or High Country? I didn’t know they had 6.2s available otherwise.

MIAdragon 10-21-2018 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13829921)
Sadly last I checked no one had figured out how to crack the 8speed trans controller so I haven't been able to do my truck yet. Was hoping they figured it out by the time it hit 60k. We may be starting over soon though.

Up to almost 20k to repair it at this point and they still wouldn't total it

Who told you the 8spd can’t be tuned, it’s absolutely can.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13832033)
Who told you the 8spd can’t be tuned, it’s absolutely can.

On the 18? Last I checked (couple months ago probably) black bear hadn't heard of anyone. It would re-write itself or something.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13832012)
So is yours a Denali or High Country? I didn’t know they had 6.2s available otherwise.

Just a 1500 ltz z71.

The 6.2 is only available in the half ton though. 6.0 (I think) in the 2500. At least on the 18s

MIAdragon 10-21-2018 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13832039)
On the 18? Last I checked (couple months ago probably) black bear hadn't heard of anyone. It would re-write itself or something.

Not sure who black bear is, but a good friend and the guy who does all my tuning/dyno work said “of course, it does require the trans controller to be sent in and unlocked”.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13832044)
Just a 1500 ltz z71.

The 6.2 is only available in the half ton though. 6.0 (I think) in the 2500. At least on the 18s

I knew about the 6.0 in 2500. I thought 6.2 was only in high country and Denali. Thanks man. Much appreciated.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13832084)
Not sure who black bear is, but a good friend and the guy who does all my tuning/dyno work said “of course, it does require the trans controller to be sent in and unlocked”.

Ok. I might hit you up for some direction if I decide to keep this thing

SAUTO 10-21-2018 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13832104)
I knew about the 6.0 in 2500. I thought 6.2 was only in high country and Denali. Thanks man. Much appreciated.

I looked it up and it's only on the LTZ and high country for Chevrolet

Buehler445 10-21-2018 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13832167)
I looked it up and it's only on the LTZ and high country for Chevrolet

Sounds good man. That engine/trans configuration is appealing.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13832202)
Sounds good man. That engine/trans configuration is appealing.

It's much better then the 6 speed. I hated that ****ing thing.

The engine runs.

Buehler445 10-21-2018 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13832207)
It's much better then the 6 speed. I hated that ****ing thing.

The engine runs.

Right on.

Dad really wants me to get a 3/4 ton with a service body box on it. I’m not all wound up to drive a 3/4 ton or drop that kind of coin.

I’ll probably line up my options and just get sticker shock.

SAUTO 10-21-2018 05:18 PM

I'll never have one with a 5.3 again lol.

SAUTO 11-08-2018 01:36 PM

finally got my truck back today, god i missed it

cooper barrett 11-08-2018 09:45 PM

Diminished value in MO???

cooper barrett 11-17-2018 12:28 PM

<iframe src="//coub.com/embed/173g7g?muted=true&autostart=false&originalSize=true&startWithHD=true" allowfullscreen frameborder="0" width="1280" height="720" allow="autoplay"></iframe><script async src="//c-cdn.coub.com/embed-runner.js"></script>

hometeam 12-15-2018 03:56 PM

So I have been kicking it around, and now am about to pull the trigger.

Since my TA has been through so many phases, and at this point is built to the hilt, save for the power level, I am going to go turbo. Ill be doing it the LS guy way, which means cheap. on3 turbo kit, with a 7875 turbo. I expect, depending on which way I go, and how ballsy we want to get, to make 600-700rwhp, which should be plenty safe with the current non-forged motor I have. of course, the built 4l80e and the 9inch wont think twice abou handling that power, so no issues there.

I have a couple of choices -

1. Slap the turbo on as my car sits, with meth. Meaning keep my 11.5:1 compression (yikes!) and my NA specced cam and go.. it wont be the absolute max effort, but will be the easiest, and leave me with more down low torque, at the expense of efficiency and top end,since the cam has 12.5 degrees of overlap, which isnt the best for a turbo set up. In this case it would be a must to run e85 or meth because of the compression. It will prob also neve rbe able to be turned up past 12-15psi, but the compression would make up for it, as long as we are safe in the tune.

2. sell my NA heads, and go to a stock 317 casting head, lowering compression to 9.8:1, and since the heads are coming off, sell my NA cam and go with a turbo spec cam. I would pick up more on the big end at the cost of throttle response and street manners. This would be more of a traditional build, and would cost me a little less since a 317 head is about a hundred bucks and I can sell my bare patriot head and NA cam for about 1200 bucks, though I would also have to buy a 400 dollar camshaft. This would also mean we have to pull the motor and its more work.

I cant make up my mindddd, id be curious to hear the opinions of SAUTO, Marcellus and others.

Buehler445 12-15-2018 04:06 PM

All that shit is above my pay grade. I’m way too cheap to be doing that kind of stuff.

hometeam 12-15-2018 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445 (Post 13964262)
All that shit is above my pay grade. I’m way too cheap to be doing that kind of stuff.

I would have said the same 6 or 7 years ago.

But, the simplicity of the single overhead cam, pushrod LS motor convinced me otherwise. In my 20s I never would have thought I could build a motor with my bare hands.. that not only runs, but runs like a striped ****ing ape, and reliably at that.

The LS1 is incredibly engineered. Its' so easy to learn about, not only because of the design but because of the professional and amateur support that it has.

YOU CAN DO IT MY MAN

cooper barrett 12-15-2018 05:07 PM

$$$ to horsepower ratio the LS wins against anything. Hands down.

Getting Nissan L26 engines to spin over 10K: That's a job for a masochist.

Perineum Ripper 12-15-2018 09:07 PM

If you are going to drive it around “daily” go the simple way. Low end torque is the best way for street in my opinion.

If this is going to be a drag car, definitely go with a cam and heads that will let you get all the benefits of the tuuurba

IA_Chiefs_fan 12-15-2018 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mac459 (Post 13964704)
If you are going to drive it around “daily” go the simple way. Low end torque is the best way for street in my opinion.

If this is going to be a drag car, definitely go with a cam and heads that will let you get all the benefits of the tuuurba

Pretty much exactly what I was going to say.

Marcellus 12-16-2018 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hometeam (Post 13964252)
So I have been kicking it around, and now am about to pull the trigger.

Since my TA has been through so many phases, and at this point is built to the hilt, save for the power level, I am going to go turbo. Ill be doing it the LS guy way, which means cheap. on3 turbo kit, with a 7875 turbo. I expect, depending on which way I go, and how ballsy we want to get, to make 600-700rwhp, which should be plenty safe with the current non-forged motor I have. of course, the built 4l80e and the 9inch wont think twice abou handling that power, so no issues there.

I have a couple of choices -

1. Slap the turbo on as my car sits, with meth. Meaning keep my 11.5:1 compression (yikes!) and my NA specced cam and go.. it wont be the absolute max effort, but will be the easiest, and leave me with more down low torque, at the expense of efficiency and top end,since the cam has 12.5 degrees of overlap, which isnt the best for a turbo set up. In this case it would be a must to run e85 or meth because of the compression. It will prob also neve rbe able to be turned up past 12-15psi, but the compression would make up for it, as long as we are safe in the tune.

2. sell my NA heads, and go to a stock 317 casting head, lowering compression to 9.8:1, and since the heads are coming off, sell my NA cam and go with a turbo spec cam. I would pick up more on the big end at the cost of throttle response and street manners. This would be more of a traditional build, and would cost me a little less since a 317 head is about a hundred bucks and I can sell my bare patriot head and NA cam for about 1200 bucks, though I would also have to buy a 400 dollar camshaft. This would also mean we have to pull the motor and its more work.

I cant make up my mindddd, id be curious to hear the opinions of SAUTO, Marcellus and others.

I would absolutely hate to be tied to E85, its great for a drag car but if you plan to drive it then that sucks.

I say go lower compression and change the cam because that actually makes it more driveable over the long run IMO.
You can have a street tune and a race tune to make it even more streetable if you want.

Marcellus 12-16-2018 08:22 PM

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/7SzxJbR"><a href="//imgur.com/7SzxJbR">December fun </a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Little bit of screwing around today.

MIAdragon 12-16-2018 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hometeam (Post 13964252)
So I have been kicking it around, and now am about to pull the trigger.

Since my TA has been through so many phases, and at this point is built to the hilt, save for the power level, I am going to go turbo. Ill be doing it the LS guy way, which means cheap. on3 turbo kit, with a 7875 turbo. I expect, depending on which way I go, and how ballsy we want to get, to make 600-700rwhp, which should be plenty safe with the current non-forged motor I have. of course, the built 4l80e and the 9inch wont think twice abou handling that power, so no issues there.

I have a couple of choices -

1. Slap the turbo on as my car sits, with meth. Meaning keep my 11.5:1 compression (yikes!) and my NA specced cam and go.. it wont be the absolute max effort, but will be the easiest, and leave me with more down low torque, at the expense of efficiency and top end,since the cam has 12.5 degrees of overlap, which isnt the best for a turbo set up. In this case it would be a must to run e85 or meth because of the compression. It will prob also neve rbe able to be turned up past 12-15psi, but the compression would make up for it, as long as we are safe in the tune.

2. sell my NA heads, and go to a stock 317 casting head, lowering compression to 9.8:1, and since the heads are coming off, sell my NA cam and go with a turbo spec cam. I would pick up more on the big end at the cost of throttle response and street manners. This would be more of a traditional build, and would cost me a little less since a 317 head is about a hundred bucks and I can sell my bare patriot head and NA cam for about 1200 bucks, though I would also have to buy a 400 dollar camshaft. This would also mean we have to pull the motor and its more work.

I cant make up my mindddd, id be curious to hear the opinions of SAUTO, Marcellus and others.

The cam plays a big role in the ability to run compression and boost. If you’re not looking for big boost I’d run as is, possibly with a cam swap.

Demonpenz 12-16-2018 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13830012)
https://i.imgur.com/XuRWzPn.jpg

Went for a long drive today. Weather is nice and the car is running very nicely.

Need to find someone to machine the slots my aluminum hood hinges so I can slide the hood back about another 3/8", its bottomed out on the back of the hinge. Gap is driving me nuts.Thats why the gap on the front of the hood bar looks off on the corner.

love that simple look but stomping ass preformance.

Marcellus 12-16-2018 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Demonpenz (Post 13966926)
love that simple look but stomping ass preformance.

Thanks man, that was the whole concept. Its fun to build a car you like and its cool when others like the same concept.

Demonpenz 12-16-2018 10:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I have a chrystler C 200 i go around town

GloryDayz 12-16-2018 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13966731)
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/7SzxJbR"><a href="//imgur.com/7SzxJbR">December fun </a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Little bit of screwing around today.

Nice...

Demonpenz 12-17-2018 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13966933)
Thanks man, that was the whole concept. Its fun to build a car you like and its cool when others like the same concept.

I love those wheels. I love black simple wheels with white lettering the best. Car guys car.

hometeam 12-17-2018 06:52 PM

So ive decided. Just gonna take the hard way out, do it right, and lower my compression and run boost.. this car made 586 foot pounds of torque the way it sits.. i figure ill llose a hundred pounds or sirght off the line, but in the end, its safer to turbo on low compression, and will yield better results.

STAY TUNED BOYS. Looking for 650+whp on pump gas on a REAL stingy dyno.

And yes, its still a driver.

hometeam 12-17-2018 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13966718)
I would absolutely hate to be tied to E85, its great for a drag car but if you plan to drive it then that sucks.

I say go lower compression and change the cam because that actually makes it more driveable over the long run IMO.
You can have a street tune and a race tune to make it even more streetable if you want.

yes this is what I will do.

I have been pure e85 in my old subie, and it was fine, but i had to literally plan any trip I made becuase of where i could fuel up.

I also run an e30 tune in my Focus st, an i get e30 by mixing 91 and e85. Its still a pain in the ass in the same way, so **** it, low compression high boost it is.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 06:56 PM

That's what I would have chosen to do too

Marcellus 12-17-2018 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hometeam (Post 13968350)
So ive decided. Just gonna take the hard way out, do it right, and lower my compression and run boost.. this car made 586 foot pounds of torque the way it sits.. i figure ill llose a hundred pounds or sirght off the line, but in the end, its safer to turbo on low compression, and will yield better results.

STAY TUNED BOYS. Looking for 650+whp on pump gas on a REAL stingy dyno.

And yes, its still a driver.

Good choice. My car is sitting at around 9:1 right now for the exact same reasons. Should get boost next year (what I said last year).

**** E85 and the pain that comes with it unless its a drag car.

MIAdragon 12-17-2018 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hometeam (Post 13968365)
yes this is what I will do.

I have been pure e85 in my old subie, and it was fine, but i had to literally plan any trip I made becuase of where i could fuel up.

I also run an e30 tune in my Focus st, an i get e30 by mixing 91 and e85. Its still a pain in the ass in the same way, so **** it, low compression high boost it is.

Don’t go too low, the LSs’ like compression. I went too low on my first 427 and it was a pig on the street.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:05 PM

We are in the process of cam swapping an 01 2wd reg cab short bed 5.3

Pulled the cam this afternoon and the front cam bearing is brass over halfway around on the pressure side.

I was shocked. Truck only has 61k on it and it's hard the oil changed 24 times with Mobil 1 synthetic. Older guy that owns it bought it new.


Any thoughts?

Marcellus 12-17-2018 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968388)
We are in the process of cam swapping an 01 2wd reg cab short bed 5.3

Pulled the cam this afternoon and the front cam bearing is brass over halfway around on the pressure side.

I was shocked. Truck only has 61k on it and it's hard the oil changed 24 times with Mobil 1 synthetic. Older guy that owns it bought it new.


Any thoughts?

Sounds like too much synthetic too often to me. Imagine washing your hair 5x a day for 2 months. Detergent at too high a level is always bad.

Edit: And I am literally just saying what comes to mind. Thats a lot of oil changes at short interval for no reason for an LS motor designed to go 8,000+ without an oil change under normal conditions.

lewdog 12-17-2018 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13968403)
Sounds like too much synthetic too often to me. Imagine washing your hair 5x a day for 2 months. Detergent at too high a level is always bad.

Edit: And I am literally just saying what comes to mind. Thats a lot of oil changes at short interval for no reason.

That's interesting. Never heard of that but I suppose makes sense.

I assume with the low miles this guy was just doing oil changes about every 6 months regardless of miles?

MIAdragon 12-17-2018 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968388)
We are in the process of cam swapping an 01 2wd reg cab short bed 5.3

Pulled the cam this afternoon and the front cam bearing is brass over halfway around on the pressure side.

I was shocked. Truck only has 61k on it and it's hard the oil changed 24 times with Mobil 1 synthetic. Older guy that owns it bought it new.


Any thoughts?

Normal, every LS I’ve been into has had healthy cam bearing wear. My 6k mile LSA was about the same.

Marcellus 12-17-2018 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 13968414)
That's interesting. Never heard of that but I suppose makes sense.

I assume with the low miles this guy was just doing oil changes about every 6 months regardless of miles?

Like I said that was just a thought that popped into my head for some reason after seeing the oil change interval. May be nothing like MIA is saying but I did a quick Google search and found this which is kind of along the lines of what I was thinking.

Quote:

Generally, there is a parabolic curve that is associated with wear rates. The are slightly higher initially, drop down to nearly nothing, and then escalate again after the oil is compromised past its point to deal with contamination.

The “uptick” in wear is due to the tribochemical barrier being removed by the “fresh” detergent package upon installation. Yes - believe it or not, too much of a good thing is a bad thing. Now, DO NOT read too much into this; I’m not saying it will kill any engine. But what I am explaining, and what is abundantly clear in UOA data as well as supported directly with the SAE article, is that the wear is HIGHER upon the initial OCI, because the cleaning additives actually remove the boundary layer that protects the metal parts. Don’t believe me? Read the whole article. And review my “normalcy” article as well; there is CLEAR data that shows the wear rates drop the further out you get from an OCI event."

I haven’t seen the SAE article, but it seems to be based on used oil analysis, showing metal particle content.
I posted there once suggesting that since UOA is an indirect way of measuring wear perhaps something else is going on.
I think it’s possible the rapid increase of metal particles in fresh oil comes from being “washed off” of various surfaces in the engine, not from increased wear.
Of course my idea didn’t get a warm reception.
I think the only way to conclusively show the short OCI’s increase wear would be to run two or more engines under identical conditions but different OCI’s, tear them down and measure the wear.

OCI means "oil change interval" I am pretty sure.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13968403)
Sounds like too much synthetic too often to me. Imagine washing your hair 5x a day for 2 months. Detergent at too high a level is always bad.

Edit: And I am literally just saying what comes to mind. Thats a lot of oil changes at short interval for no reason for an LS motor designed to go 8,000+ without an oil change under normal conditions.

Never thought of that.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13968421)
Normal, every LS I’ve been into has had healthy cam bearing wear. My 6k mile LSA was about the same.

Ive never seen it like this before.

You swap in new bearings every time you swap cams?

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcellus (Post 13968435)
Like I said that was just a thought that popped into my head for some reason after seeing the oil change interval. May be nothing like MIA is saying but I did a quick Google search and found this which is kind of along the lines of what I was thinking.



OCI means "oil change interval" I am pretty sure.

I'd be interested in reading that article and the sae one mentioned if you happen to have a link

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 13968414)
That's interesting. Never heard of that but I suppose makes sense.

I assume with the low miles this guy was just doing oil changes about every 6 months regardless of miles?

Every 3k unless it sat an extended period. We always cried when we drained basically brand new oil out of it.

lewdog 12-17-2018 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968462)
Every 3k unless it sat an extended period. We always cried when we drained basically brand new oil out of it.

So realistically what do you really recommend for a car that is driven low miles when using fully synthetic? Were you recommending he change that often or was he?

MIAdragon 12-17-2018 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968449)
Ive never seen it like this before.

You swap in new bearings every time you swap cams?

Unless it’s bad to where you can feel the grove with your nail I run them. I’m not easy on my motors either.

hometeam 12-17-2018 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13968375)
Don’t go too low, the LSs’ like compression. I went too low on my first 427 and it was a pig on the street.

ill be 9.8:1 on 317 heads with .051 head gasket, i have flat top pistons etc.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 13968465)
So realistically what do you really recommend for a car that is driven low miles when using fully synthetic? Were you recommending he change that often or was he?

He was insisting.

I go 5 on my truck and it still looks new coming out.

Marcellus 12-17-2018 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968460)
I'd be interested in reading that article and the sae one mentioned if you happen to have a link

Took a wee bit of digging but here it is. Interesting stuff.

Shouldnt be surprising oil companies want us to change oil as often as possible :D

https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2007-01-4133/

Quote:

A fleet of three vehicles was run in Las Vegas and oil samples were collected at various drain intervals from 3000 miles to 15000 miles. As in the previous study, the results showed that the aged engine oils provide lower friction and much improved wear protection capability. These improvements were observed as early as the 3000 mile drain interval and continued to the 15000 mile drain interval. The composition of tribochemical films formed on the surface with the 3000 mile drain interval is similar to that formed with the 12000 mile drain interval as seen before. These findings could be an enabler for achieving longer drain interval although several other factors must to be considered.

hometeam 12-17-2018 07:52 PM

common failure points of an LS

1. rods
2. rod bolts
3. cam bearings

cam bearings is what killed my truck motor the first time around. At the same time I have zero intention on swapping cam bearings in the TA going to a turbo cam, unless we open it up and see something egregious.

SAUTO 12-17-2018 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 13968475)
Unless it’s bad to where you can feel the grove with your nail I run them. I’m not easy on my motors either.

It's got a lip.

We're pulling the motor tomorrow. Shit the timing chain had almost a 1/2 inch of slop. Heads will have to come off now. I'll take it to the machine shop and have them install bearings.

Marcellus 12-17-2018 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAUTO (Post 13968487)
It's got a lip.

We're pulling the motor tomorrow. Shit the timing chain had almost a 1/2 inch of slop. Heads will have to come off now. I'll take it to the machine shop and have them install bearings.

WTF?

Sounds like premature wear.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:30 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.