But I'm good at posting them now at least...I'll send you a pm too.

I'm not even sure what I just typed lol but i think you'll get the gist of it

Studebaker?

Plymouth fury

Ooohhhhhh


No

No.

63 olds cutlass

I'm just ****ing with you.

I don't know enough about cars to be in the ballpark. Was just guessing based on my limited knowledge.

I think that Stang is a must buy at that price.

First FMU's suck, and the MAF needs to be rotated 180 deg.

Looks like a 64 T-Bird, but hell not much to go on.

Lol. It's a 59 or 60 I think. It got drug in recently.

I knew I should just said a old T-Bird!

http://i.imgur.com/PzSTeom.jpg

About five miles before the front truck was wrecked yesterday.

I think I found you a project. And it is, and it's a 73 BUT by the pics its got a VERY NICE supposedly Texas body.

3/4 ton, 4x4, https://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/6161845526.html

Ah shit..that one is looking very promising..you my friend are a gentleman and a scholar

noooooooo!

Went ahead and ordered it today.

Hope to have it installed by Friday but we'll see if my mechanic can find it in his heart to actually work. I love the guy, but he's a good ol' boy through and through. Some days he's there, some days he ain't.

Awesome, I bet you love it, keep us posted.

How did that happen?

Looks like a new spring shackle broke. Not totally sure yet. Something banged and it went straight right. Through a ditch, caught several feet of air, through the driver out the door, took out a sign and a 4'x4' block of concrete.

It was a stubbed truck, rack and pinion, pdb, all new stuff underneath. Said it felt like someone rear ended him, but no one was there.

It's my body shop buddy's oldest son's truck. The family has quite a few rides, next time I'm at his toy shop I'll shoot some pics. I posted pics of the truck in back before, it belongs to a flooring guy.

It's here but I can't get it into the shop until the middle of next week. Looks pretty slick but that doesn't tell me much.

Lookin' forward to it. I suspect it will behave like the old school throttle body injected EFIs. Certainly not a port injection system but almost definitely a notable improvement over the carburetor.

We've installed some Throttle Body EFI's in our shop. Not the one you have, but similar. Had pretty good success with them. Customers seemed happy.

Paging Jasonsauto or any other car expert:

I'm having trouble with the cooling system on my 96 Trans Am with the LT1 engine.

The car runs fine on the highway. I have an OBDII hooked up and the temperature will range between 165 and 170 on the highway. When I return home, I have to drive about 3 miles of gravel. The temperature will start to rise when I drive less then 30 miles an hour.

The last 2 times I've driven it home, when I've gotten to my garage and backed it in, coolant starts gushing out of the coolant reservoir. Both times the temperature has been between 190 and 200. The fans on the LT1 are not supposed to even kick on until the temperature reaches 218 and 235 (2 fan system)

If I start it up and let it idle, the same thing happens. Temperature climbs, it gets around 190 and coolant gushes out.

The other day I tried an experiment. The coolant was about 6 inches below the neck of the radiator from lost coolant, so I started it up with the radiator cap off and let it idle. When it reached about 130 the coolant began to rise. At 150 it was up to the neck of the radiator, so I stuck a funnel in the radiator. At 160 it was into the funnel and at 180 (when the thermostat should be open) it was coming over the top of the funnel so I shut it down.

Last fall, I used a flush and changed out the coolant. This year, I've changed the thermostat, taken it back out and checked it in water on the stove and it opens fine. Changed the radiator cap and replaced the bottom radiator hose as it rubbed on one of the pulleys and began to leak.

It looks like the coolant is coming out of the engine as it should, but is not going back into the engine. I also noticed my temperature gauge on the dashboard jumps around and never seems to be stable.

Any ideas? Thanks for the help

Hear any bubbling when you turn the car off? When the car gets hot, does the upper radiator hose get firm when you squeeze it?

First things that pop in my head:

1. Check the Radiator Cap. Seems silly, but a bad cap can let air into the system. You might get lucky.

2. Check the hoses, make sure they're secure. See if you can spot any bubbling/fluid coming from the hose ends. Maybe you got lucky and you just need a new clamp.

3. Bad Water Pump. Grab the water pump by the pulley (assuming it has a pulley). If you can jiggle it, it's wearing/bad. You may or may not see fluid leaking from the bottom of the pump.

4. Blown head gasket? Check for any leaking fluid around the intake manifold too. When i had heating issues in my Fbod, i was leaking fluid under the intake manifold, which ate at the aluminum.

5. Not sure about the LT1's, but does your radiator have plastic tanks? If so, check for any cracks.

On a side note that probably has nothing to do with your issue, that ABS Plastic air damn that's under the F-bods, make sure it's secure and functional. I took it off once thinking i didn't need it. Nope, big mistake. That puny air damn is what's funneling air to our radiator. With out it the car will over heat. I found that out the har way.

I took it off after lowering the car because it kept scraping. Bad idea.

I don't think so. At least I haven't come across the mention of that.

Thanks for the input.

Also could it have an air bubble? Did you bleed it out good when the stat was installed?

DING DING DING: WINNAH

I had bled the system but put it up on jacks and bled it again several times this morning. Drove it about 80 miles today including some city driving, and no problems at all. Temperature even got up to 215 in town. The temperature gauge didn't bounce around near as much, but still wasn't stable. I'm assuming that there might still be some air trapped, but not going to screw with it as long as it's not overflowing the coolant jug.

Thanks Jasonauto, and thank you Detoxing for offering your knowledge

I've got another contender, it's NOT a 4x4 (even though it's got 33's on it) again it's NOT A 4x4.

It's a 73 c20 camper special with the heavy suspension, 454 and I think 400 turbo. I doubt the paint is original but it will do and it's held up good it's at least 15 years old. I've known the truck that long.

The guy that owns it has had it in his family since new, I'm pretty sure it was always in Arizona and garaged since here. The owner knows the vin number by heart...

I thought about it before but NEVER THOUGHT it could be bought. He put 100 miles on it in the last year, it needs a spray in bed liner. A power brake booster, and a fuel sender.
He brought it by today and we were talking about it, as he was leaving I asked if he would sell it.

He said $10,000. I think with your story he might take less. I think he's a little strong on the money.

http://i.imgur.com/avoCn5B.jpg

Block is out of the T/A again, but Ill have the bobber at Versailles this weekend. Anyone coming?

Shit I wish...

Joining the "trying to do man things" with my purchase today.

3 ton hydraulic jack with 3 ton jack stands.

If I get the urge to do some car staff, I have the means now. I pray it doesn't come to that though.

Got it all put in and picked it up yesterday. Damn - I almost have to re-learn to drive it. That's a lot of immediate power on demand now and none of the lag. Easy to start, no idle issues; night and day difference.

Sadly, the return line has a bit of a leak so I walked into the garage to the smell of fuel and a nice little oil/gas puddle under the rear of the car (since it burns a bit of oil, the gas mixed with the oil 'barrier' on the tank and it ran as a sludge). But that'll be easily remedied.

Great addition. One odd quirk that comes with the design and it's that you hear that 'slurp' sound you tended to hear when the rear barrels open on a carburetor a little more often. It's never bothered me, I kind think it's a cool sound, but it's a little more prevalent due to the design of the venturis and how it pulls in air.

Small price to pay for a car that I sit in, turn the key and then just back it out of the garage.

Glad you like it, man.

The day I finally get rid of the last piece of shit that has a goddamned carburetor or mother****ing POINTS, I will dance a jig.

I have a nice demon carburetor now just sitting in a box.

Asked the guy if anyone might want to buy it and he said "y'know, I'll ask around, but everyone's doing these same EFI kits these days so I don't know how much luck you'll have..."

Purchased and installed for $1,700 (he even pressure tested and fixed up my AC while he was at it). Can't really beat that.

Gotta love finding a good shade-tree mechanic that you trust.

Yeah. I'd hang on to that guy.

I've got the same problem with our old stuff. We barely use it but it isn't worth a damn thing, so it makes good sense to keep it for the rinky dink shit we do rather than spend real money on something good.

But I'm working on Dad. I think I've got electronic ignition on everything now. He may still have an irrigation engine with points, but that's it.

I HATE POINTS

Awesome! :thumb: I knew you would love it.

I assume the exhausts smell is much cleaner now and not all rich and fumy?

Hard to tell. I switched to 5W-30 synthetic and that was a mistake. Too slick, too runny. With the 2-piece rear main seal, it started to leak a little oil again. And then with the gas leak coming from the return line, the garage smelled like it was an explosion waiting to happen this morning.

I expect after I get that line patched up and get the oil switched back over to 20W-50 conventional, the oil/gas smell will largely clear up. Then I'm going to replace the bearing in the steering column so the damn rattle stops and it'll be in pretty nice shape.

Still wish it had more responsive steering rather than the old-school recirculating ball setup, but with the new upper control arms in, even that's become less of a concern. Every year I drop another $1k on it and get it closer to what I'm after. It's been paid for for 3-4 years now so might as well get it to what I want it to be. Since the wife's making me get an SUV, I'll want to have this guy on hand for days that I just feel like putting my foot in something...

You can pick up performance steering box for that thing for well under $1000 I am fairly sure. :D

Well, yeah.

But like I said; I pretty much get one new toy to add to that thing a year (and I'm already putting new wheels/tires on it "for safety purposes") so I suspect that'll have to wait...

Safety is important! ;)

Did you ever decide which wheels you were going with

Yeah, going with the Ramblers.

:hmmm:

Too much for a 1600cc motor Stevie:D

LMAO

I was thinking about my Elko

Check out our new company car! One of our employees will be touring across the country, shaking hands with our repair shop customers.

Ok, TA is back together for good now I swear to god. Needs a little bit of tuning but shes ready for action.

This means Ill be at versailles on the 22nd with the car. Maybe the hot summer nights on the strip at LOZ the night before.

Anyone else gonna get sand out of the vagina and make it?

sooo nobody doing sonic summer nights tonight?

How about cars who care in COMO tommorrow?

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0...c7&oe=5A0BAFE1

Would love to be doing something but broke my rear end today. Snapped the nose right of the housing of the center section. Its a 9" Ford rear, pretty odd.

Think I will go to an aluminum housing this time.

I had a shot at a really good deal on a drag pack the other day but passed because I dont want to buy a rear end just yet lol

This is all new shit from the build. Not sure why it gave out.

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psis2jcedh.jpg

Speaking of builds, I am thinking of forgoing the nitrous. I already have all the parts, a full bottle etc.

Car runs correctly now and everything else but Nitrous has like tripled in price over the last 6 months because of the factory explosion. Might just sell it all and boost~

in thread humor:

i was showing our 17 and 14 year old some bits under the hood of the car. coolant dangers, dip stick, oil levels, how not to put oil in the dipstick tube, rather pour into cap, etc...

the reason for this is my battery went dead on me today, and i needed to change it. so i break out the whole never bridge the two posts as it could electrocute you, etc.. which is ground, why not to let the positive contact any metals.

so then i start to remove the battery. ****ing nut on battery post broke loose so fast, my spanner ****ing bridged the posts ROFL should have seen there eyes (and mine) when sparks started flying. we did have a good chuckle after i quickly knocked the spanner away, but **** me running wasn't that embarrasing LOLPMSL :D

Rofl. Shorting a battery won't electrocute you. It's only after it goes through the coil that it bites the shit out of you. Or else it would have thermonuclear you when you made the connection with your wrench (is that what a spanner is? - ****ing Australians!)

It takes amps to bite the **** out of you which happens in the coil. If you want to teach them that tell them you have to see if you are getting spark to the plug and stick a screwdriver in the plug wire give it to them, and bump the starter. Boom. Lesson about amperage!:D. I'm here to help.

....When I was 12, a friend of my moms did this to me when my Steen Hodaka wouldn't fire.

I'll never forget that moment. He about fell over laughing.

thanks for the tip, but i don't know if the boys will ever know what a spark plug is, and after my last demonstration i think they probably trust me even less ROFL

Need help figuring out the color of our 2007 Civic, so I can order some touchup paint. I can't locate the color anywhere and I don't see much listed inside the door frame. They literally have like 30+ colors for that model and I can't tell from the online graphics which one it is. Any help.

The plan is to touchup this car in spots, practice wet sanding/polishing down these marks, before attempting similar on the Mustang rock chips. I touched up some spots on the Mustang but some are raised or a bit too spread out and give a funny look on the car. I'd like to try to normalize them somewhat but want practice on the car we don't care about first.

Send me the VIN I can pull it from Hondas system since I work for them now.

Sooooo.. I did a thing... (ignore the g8)

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t34....64&oe=5970CDB8

Moser 9 inch for f body, backing plates, gusseted, 35 spline axles, and my favorite.. wavetrac. Will likely need a new drive shaft, going to go chromoly, and some new wheels bearings to complete it.

Brand new, should be in the car next week, no more shit ten bolt! gonna load that ****er up and let er rip!

Only thing that sucks is between the iron block 6.0, the 4l80, and the 9 bolt its going to be a bullet proof boat.. methinks she needs boost instead of nitrous :(

Check your rep message.

Shouldn't there be a paint code somewhere?


Also I know O'Reilly can shoot it with their match gun thing and mix it up on site.

Yes, go for boost.

And man I am going to wish I had gone your route with a full upgrade but a buddy of mine has a perfectly good center section, same gears etc...and all I can drop into my car for $500 this week and get it back on the road.

I think it was a freak deal but I guess we will see.

I have port/polished/milled 243s right now, so boost is a little complicated, IM already running something like 11:1 compression so will have to either go e85 and upgrade my injectors a bit (from 42lbs to 60), or will have to run a meth kit, which I think is more feasible since this car is a driver and e85 just reduces range so much.

I already have headers exhaust blah blah blah so supercharger may make more sense than turbo but god damn are they expensive. Gonna just run it this year and see how it does, I think with all this weight I would be happy with a 12.0 N/A.

Thing sounds nasty though :P

You will be good for a while I bet on your 3rd member, didn't you say it was a freak thing for it to break in the first place?

Yes, usually under the hood on one of the metal plates with other build info on it. It should be a three digit code like PF8, D5H or such.

Drivers door jam, middle under the barcode is your paint code.

A 9" center shouldn't break unless it was a casting flaw or beat in a previous life, throw it back in and go.

Link me Hometeam? I'm still having trouble locating where to purchase correct one.

http://i.imgur.com/et79Nps.jpg

BORREGO BEIGE METALLIC?

I'd have never guessed that from the massive list.

Thanks!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ARzujfRiQ3c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

When I was daily driving my Mustang I used 89 fuel.

Now that I am driving it seldom, I don't mind paying more for a fill up. But would using a higher octane gas benefit me if the car isn't tuned for it? I've heard people say that but not sure I'd agree? Seems like 91 is about as high as it goes for most pumps here though.

And so I've learned in researching this question today, that Phoenix and most western states in general, only go to 91 at the pumps.

Guess that's what I'll be rolling with then since 93 seems non-existent.

If your car isnt tuned for it it will do nothing except cost you extra money.

My car is tuned pretty tight, and I 100% have to have 93. Fortunately for me, its all over central Missouri~

Fun note,

got a killer deal on some darkstars 15s with 28 inch tall MTs and 17 inch skinny frontrunners today, was so due for an upgrade.

9bolt goes in next week and we ready to do big boy stuff~

Good to know.

I have this tuner. Does it come with basic octane tunes preloaded? Or are they something I need to buy and upload to this?

https://cdn3.volusion.com/hbdet.vzsb...jpg?1418214682

I cant tell you much about mustang tuners, but I bet it does have preloaded 'base' tunes

Some things about living in Jersey suck, but every station has 93 thankfully. Hometeam is right, your tune will determine what you need/use. If you can only get 91 out there, make sure you tune for it.