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-   -   Home and Auto DIY - Anyone ever wrap your automobile interior trim? (https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showthread.php?t=315855)

Simply Red 06-18-2018 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Detoxing (Post 13597188)
Probably the wrong stuff then. The stuff i used has a sticky back. No adhesive or adhesive promoter needed.

Phew! Okay that's good to know! I was thinking to myself - Did I miss something in those videos? LOL

Simply Red 06-18-2018 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Detoxing (Post 13597190)
You can also do a matte clear though, since matte is the finish you're after. If you put a gloss clear over matte vinyl...it'll be gloss. Ideally, the matte clear won't change the finish (you'll have to test it first of course) and it'll ad further UV protection to the vinyl.

GOTCHA! Thanks for that - I'll explore it.

Perineum Ripper 06-18-2018 10:37 AM

I second the 3M products, use a few of their products on the farm for various things and they hold up well to all the abuse they see

ToxSocks 06-18-2018 10:38 AM

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-for-print.pdf

Most recently ive used the Brushed Black Metallic. Looks killer. Doesn't look good with the clear though lol.

loochy 06-18-2018 10:41 AM

I did the interior of my old Saab with 3M Di-Noc. The Di-Noc is kind of thick and it can be difficult to use on small interior pieces. For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.

I also covered the white chrome window trim on my old Cadillac with some Vvivid Black Chrome. It was harder to work with and had a tendency to "streak" or "thin out" if heated too much.

Prep - make sure your piece is super clean.

You'll want to use a lot of heat to stretch the vinyl a bit so it kind of pulls and grabs around the edges. Leave a decent overlap around the edges and wrap it all the way around the piece. It takes a while to get the hang of how much to stretch it without ruining the print pattern. It also takes a while figure out how and where to make relief cuts when wrapping curved pieces (you'll see what I mean).

ToxSocks 06-18-2018 10:43 AM

Kinda diggin' this Matrix Black

https://i.imgur.com/Bzw5H8L.jpg

loochy 06-18-2018 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Detoxing (Post 13597188)
Probably the wrong stuff then. The stuff i used has a sticky back. No adhesive or adhesive promoter needed.

The promoter/primer is a good idea though. It really helped when I did the window trim on my old Cadillac. The first time I did it without promoter/primer and it started peeling up from the edge. After the promoter/primer, it stayed put.
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ToxSocks 06-18-2018 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loochy (Post 13597206)
For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.

I think they refer to it now as there "1080" product line. Which is what i linked to you, SR.

Simply Red 06-18-2018 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loochy (Post 13597206)
I did the interior of my old Saab with 3M Di-Noc. The Di-Noc is kind of thick and it can be difficult to use on small interior pieces. For interior applications, I recommend 3M scotchprint. I used it in black dry carbon fiber and brushed aluminum. Both looked very nice.

I also covered the white chrome window trim on my old Cadillac with some Vvivid Black Chrome. It was harder to work with and had a tendency to "streak" or "thin out" if heated too much.

Prep - make sure your piece is super clean.

You'll want to use a lot of heat to stretch the vinyl a bit so it kind of pulls and grabs around the edges. Leave a decent overlap around the edges and wrap it all the way around the piece. It takes a while to get the hang of how much to stretch it without ruining the print pattern. It also takes a while figure out how and where to make relief cuts when wrapping curved pieces (you'll see what I mean).


I have a little experience - from owning a heat gun when i had my own business - as well as re-felting pool tables - which is more similar than one would think. Not saying I won't run into some hurdles - I'm sure i'll have to start over on a piece, early on. But it'll be fine.

ToxSocks 06-18-2018 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simply Red (Post 13597218)
I have a little experience - from owning a heat gun when i had my own business - as well as re-felting pool tables - which is more similar than one would think. Not saying I won't run into some hurdles - I'm sure i'll have to start over on a piece, early on. But it'll be fine.

Just be careful with the heat gun. You can overheat it, cause it to become TOO pliable, and tear it. Honestly, a hair dryer is sufficient. On my heat gun i just used the lowest setting.

Simply Red 06-18-2018 10:50 AM

all the advice is appreciated. thanks.

Simply Red 06-18-2018 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Detoxing (Post 13597220)
Just be careful with the heat gun. You can overheat it, cause it to become TOO pliable, and tear it. Honestly, a hair dryer is sufficient. On my heat gun i just used the lowest setting.

noted.

tooge 06-18-2018 10:51 AM

I've got something to clean her trim with

loochy 06-18-2018 10:52 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Pic of carbon and brushed aluminum

loochy 06-18-2018 10:53 AM

Oh - BTW, you can order small samples of whatever you want for about $1 apiece. It's worth it when trying to decide what color and texture you want.
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