Originally Posted by SAGA45 (Post 11999326)

Just bout a 2015 Smokey Blue KIA Optima ..any recommendations for a cleaning kit to start with? Price isn't much of an issue as I very much want to maintain the appearance of my car.

Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 12002455)

Get two 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot or Lowe's. Use the 2 bucket method for washing. On bucket has your soap in it, the other is to rinse the wash mitt after it touches your car and is dirty.

Get grit guards for each bucket.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Grit-Guard.../dp/B000N3W8J0

Get a decent car wash soap. I like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164...words=car+wash

Get two wash mitts. I prefer Microfiber. I switch to a new mitt halfway through the car if it's dirty.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I use an inexpensive leaf blower to aid in drying my car. It works great. Still requires some toweling off but really cuts down my time and risk of micro-marring. I own this one, it's cheap and plenty fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-240...ds=leaf+blower

Get some waffle weave towels. With the blower, I need about 2 to do my car. Without the blower, about 4 towels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-X...Towel/29069544


Get some Microfiber towels for the wheels. Cheapest and easiest way to clean them is with ammonia free Windex. Takes stuff right off and provides an excellent shine while being safe. Avoid wheel cleaners if you can, most are very harsh.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...crofiber&psc=1


Use whatever wax you like but a good wax without spending boat loads of money is NXT 2.0. Easy application, although it requires a 30-60 minute dry time in my experience based on weather conditions. Do the finger swipe test to determine when it's dry. If you swipe your finger on the wax and it smears, it needs more time. If you swipe your finger and the paint looks clear, it's ready to come off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-127...ywords=nxt+2.0

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 12002455)

Get two 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot or Lowe's. Use the 2 bucket method for washing. On bucket has your soap in it, the other is to rinse the wash mitt after it touches your car and is dirty.

Get grit guards for each bucket.

[url]http://www.amazon.com/The-Grit-Guard-Insert-Red/dp/B000N3W8J0[/urll]

Get a decent car wash soap. I like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164...words=car+wash

Get two wash mitts. I prefer Microfiber. I switch to a new mitt halfway through the car if it's dirty.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I use an inexpensive leaf blower to aid in drying my car. It works great. Still requires some toweling off but really cuts down my time and risk of micro-marring. I own this one, it's cheap and plenty fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-240...ds=leaf+blower

Get some waffle weave towels. With the blower, I need about 2 to do my car. Without the blower, about 4 towels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-X...Towel/29069544


Get some Microfiber towels for the wheels. Cheapest and easiest way to clean them is with ammonia free Windex. Takes stuff right off and provides an excellent shine while being safe. Avoid wheel cleaners if you can, most are very harsh.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...crofiber&psc=1


Use whatever wax you like but a good wax without spending boat loads of money is NXT 2.0. Easy application, although it requires a 30-60 minute dry time in my experience based on weather conditions. Do the finger swipe test to determine when it's dry. If you swipe your finger on the wax and it smears, it needs more time. If you swipe your finger and the paint looks clear, it's ready to come off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-127...ywords=nxt+2.0

Originally Posted by Miles (Post 12029514)

Anyone tried one of the Nanoskin products for removing contamination instead of clay? Have been reading it a less of a pain in the ass and quicker and thinking of trying it out.

Planning to do a full correction on my car in the next month or two. It has been around 2 years since I last did the entire car and starting to really show with the black paint even though I have been touching it up in spots.

Originally Posted by Miles (Post 12029518)

If anyone needs a dual action polisher this is one of the best deals I have seen in a while since it includes quality swirl removal and polishing product plus the pads and backing plate.

Additional 20% off with code LUCKY20 before 11 central tomorrow and free shipping.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/griot...isher-duo.html

Originally Posted by SAGA45 (Post 12031780)

Great stuff! Now I can get the tools to treat my baby right!! Thanx man!

How about the interior? I don't eat or allow eating in the car. I don't even go through drive thru as I don't want any soda dripping in the car lol.

My interior is no frills...no wood or leather....basic stuff. I want to keep the seat, carpet and dash lookin good. What do you recommend there?

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 12034927)

I am switching to this product for my interior dash next time after some recommendations from others.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/...M4NJJ6BY&psc=1

If you want a simple cleaner, buy a plush microfiber cloth and spray this on your dash. Smells good and cleans well.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1361...terior+cleaner


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCJNU/...I1KEI72JZ0YZXU

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 12034924)

I tried to polish my car once and I really felt very uncomfortable about what I was doing. I watched and researched a ton before doing it but I still felt I didn't know how much polishing compound to put on, how long to stay in one spot and how I could tell if I was doing any good or causing damage. I'd love any tips from you when you get a chance. I'd just like to polish my hood, which is where most of my micro-marring takes place.

Originally Posted by SAGA45 (Post 12040644)

Thanks again man! Got everything list set to order. Should get here by Friday. Do I need a Clay kit before applying the wax or will a thorough and meticulous wash do just fine?

Originally Posted by Miles (Post 12040721)

For your new Optima may not have to clay depending on how particular you want to be since its a bit of work put does pay off and expect it to be easy with a new car. The clay removes the surface contaminants that you can't see and there are some your car likely picked up in transit and on the lot. Washing won't get that stuff off but many don't notice. However if you want your car to really have that great detailed look claying before you do anything is a must.

May want to consider polishing before waxing/sealing but IMO completely depends if you actually enjoy doing this stuff since its far more labor intensive that cost.

Originally Posted by Miles (Post 12040711)

Sounds like you bought a polisher already and what did you get? If you have a dual action I have always felt those are fairly idiot proof (also all I have used) and I have been hardly the expert user. You very likely have minimal risk of ****ing something up unless you are using using pretty abrasive product/pad which are usually labeled with scary words like cutting. Knowing that (or thinking I did) helped me a lot with he learning curve over the years. With a dual action it can actually take a bit of work to polish out minor scratches meaning sometimes pushing down to create heat and going over the area a number of times.

What you were asking is what I also found complicated as hell these days is what polishes and pads to use for paint correction since there is so much stuff. A swirl remover that polishes out 2000 grit and a final polish is what I have been using. Basically what is sold a polish "duo" on autogeek like Wolfgang or Blackfire. There are lot of levels in between but these are made for people like us to simply.

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-car-polishes-8oz.html

Lake Country CCS Orange for swirl and white for the final polish product. Smaller pads like 5.5" are even smaller are easier to work with.

Originally Posted by MIAdragon (Post 12040796)

Any new car should need not only clay but an IronX type product. Rail dust is a bitch get it out ASAP. That nano skin someone was talking about is a really good clay alternative. Lasts forever and if you drop it you just wash it off. Worth the investment imo.